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  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-16-2017, 08:44 PM
    Posting for Rob as he said he is away from the computer until Monday sometime: "All, There are some "new casted" offerings floating amuck with promise of "better flow, better materials, brand new, and best cost". Now it is always great to have new options especially for a better price, but understand that these items are 100% cheap chinese produced "core" offerings. We have considered their usage as well as this platform is evolving into a more competitive environment (cheaper cars, etc etc); but when we already have a "dialed-in" product we wonder if it is worth the potential risks of making a SUBSTANTIAL change to a lower quality oriented direction? All for the end result of selling a product for the same cost, or maybe a couple hundred less, at best. Being a vendor who is ultimately responsible for product quality these are thoughts that are very critical. Additionally even though the warranty is "only" a year we still would like products to last many MANY years. We especially would like to not have product fail due to poor metallurgical or casting quality, and this type of problem is EPIDEMIC. As you may understand we have had these units in hand for a while now as they have been readily available for close to a year. Despite what some vendors may say, such as "we own the design" or "custom made only for us" comments rest assured these exact same units they are utilizing. There is nothing special about them and whoever may obtain them (especially with a large bulk order) and the ONLY customization that maybe setting apart Vendor to Vendor is the differences of the internal wheel machining specifications. These wheel specs however have nothing to do with the overall housing design and quality. Our immediate initial impressions are that they are a certain downgrade- and here are a few reasons why: 1) Highly Magnetic to show a larger Iron content (ie. in lieu of the OE style MHI High Quality High Heat Austenitic Stainless steel)(we have metallurgical analysis underway) 2) Similar to smaller ID manifold/turbine housing dimensions (we have cross sections underway) and certain poorer flow paths per borescope views NOTE: We CERTAINLY are NOT seeing these as larger ID specs!!! 3) Lack of OE style Double wall insulated air gapped (made by Boysen) manifolds for worse heat retention 4) Much thicker casting walls (large OD specs from thicker materials so "looks" a bit larger) and each housing at over 10lbs vs. under 7lbs for OEM Good things we see (with using them): 1) Very cheap to purchase 2) Being new there is no refurbishment 3) Come pre-equipped with "new" wastegates (albeit the worst aftermarket design we have found) Good things we see from their availability (while others use them): 1) Will free up a ton of higher quality OEM cores to use as the base builds Few good links to educate oneself: 1) 2) 3) We are very curious to see how the competition has came up with some of their "conclusions" on these new "core" units being superior. They've come to the conclusion that these are higher flowing and better quality manifolds/housings, but we are unsure how that can be whatsoever on our initial findings. They'd be welcome to post up any data they've found in this thread, whether they do or don't it is not of great concern as we will soon- good or bad. Obviously our perception (vs. that of some of competitors) have come to some very different conclusions here, and of course everything is up for debate but our thoughts are this is a rather risky maneuver to use as a core product for a base build/upgrade... at least NOT without much further due diligence. Even then it will take an awful lot more perks, that we are not even remotely seeing at this moment, to warrant the slight savings of making this change. Rob"
    242 replies | 27320 view(s)
  • MJ335's Avatar
    08-04-2017, 08:13 AM
    hey guys just wanna put my story here on the table, to prevent others to make the same errors. Im not going to write this post to the respective sales threads as im not looking to get a shitstorm on me. This is just my story of suffer to get some bhp more out of my car. Im do not also like to get involved my dealer/ installations shop on this, as those guys are very nice and make all the installations form the first unit for free. So for sure im not going to put them in the same boat as Hexon, Marshall, CHSC and NOZ. The story did start back in early 2016, where i bought with my money put aside a Hexon600 turbo upgrade incl. installation service and some hardware parts. After long time of waiting 4 months i got finally my set. So happy as i got the installation imidetally done! But this feeling did not last for long, as after break-in (300km), by using just a stock turbo stg2+ mapping, the rear turbo flow apart. I think this experiance is well known. And next also Hexon closed down, perfect! lucky me the installers had still contact to an employee (Wayne) from Hexon, which continue the business with the Brand Marshall (co-op CHSC) and came up with a free replacement. Even the turbo was smaller as the Hexon600 i was happy to get a replacement full free of charge incl. installation. Better smaller and reliable my toughts on this. After break-in of 300km, making some pulls with stg2+ stock turbo mapping and all went good. Then made a 20psi straight to redline mapping and all stillgood, so happy!!!! But unfortunatelly this feeling last just for 4000km and blue smoke starts to came out from the exhaust :( It was Nov 2016 and again i had to visit the shop. What now? I got informed those units wont be sold any longer, what the heck! what now?? From the shop i got the offer to go for a BB stg2 Turbo replacement. It looks promising as i got to see professional CHAR pictures branded NOZ Turbo Engineering. The shop received one of the very first units of these turbos, together with an Australian dealer. The turbo run already for 2000km and absolutely no problems. I saw the logs and the spool ability were just great, stg2 turbos and spool like stocker, perfect! As the supplier was still the same (Hexon, Marshall, etc) i got again a free replacement. So lets go and all good things come in threes. After long time of wait and postponing the ETA, again and again, my stomach feeling start to get worst, it somehow remind me to the Hexon story. But then finally i got my unit... Wow, they looked so nice like absolutely new units! It was March and i go for the next installation. This time the installation should be done from a partner of the initial shop, as this shop its just sitting near from me. After a while just got a bad notice from the shop, by installing the turbos, they notice that the comp. housing spins on the char. Shit! Luckily me the shop had more of those NOZ bb units and we took the way of 250km a picked the replacement up. So happy that installation can be finalized and i got my car back. So again brake-in, then put the the 20psi straight mapping on it and lets go. i was impressed, the spool behaviour and also the nice bb sound of the turbos. You can imagine what happens now after 1500 km :( No smoke, but the turbos starts to howl pretty loudly... so it would just be a question of time, that also this turbos will fly apart. After taking down the downpipe, it was visible that the turbine wheel was touching the housing. So again take the rear turbo down and take the way to pick a replacement shop to get the next installation done. Uff, suffer again! I was almost to going to sell the car after all this. So again i went for break-in. I run the car for approx 1500km and i got a more or less good feeling. Perfect i run the turbos for some couple of thousand km more without howling issues or any smoke. I just realize if i pull the car for long on the German autobahn, the car suddenly has no power. I did initially not allocate the issue to the turbso. Went back to the shop for further investigation, to see what the problem could be and i got informed "the BB gets to hot and will block". They had the same issue also on the N55 Turbo. My thoughts "What the fuck, i run not even 20psi redline and the turbo blocks if i pull the car to long!!!". You can imagine now what happens, it took a couple of thousand km more and also the third BB set flow start to smoke and after 5000km they fly apart. After all this i almost fight the local shop owner, even i never fight somebody in my life. I was so f**** frustrated after having a car for more as one year not running properly. After all this, he show me all email, whatsapp and facebook conversations and i saw plenty of messages going to this Wayne and that the local shop is in even the bigger s*** as me. Finally that Wayne also stop to replay and made a typical made in Taiwan phase out. I finally got a TTE550 from the local shop, even i had to pay for it, im finally happy to run a reliable car again. And this turbos are pushing so much more as those shitty bb turbos, where no company stand behind. My advice to you guys going for upgrade turbos: Use turbos from registered, well known and long existing companies. TTE, Vargas, Pure, etc. Think about what will happen, if after 6 months of sales, turbos starts to make problems and this companies have to make huge replacements (like Hexon). Taiwan and China is well known just to close down and reopen the same company with other name at the same address. Look deeper what the selling company is. for example, there is no contact address, no FAQ, no anything, its a risk. Hope i could help you by adding my story, to preventing you from the same suffer as i did. my turbo story from Hexon to NOZ on datazap :angry-banghead: Some pics and vids
    92 replies | 9408 view(s)
  • ///MPOSTER's Avatar
    07-17-2017, 12:42 PM
    5 BMWs seized in Catawba Co. street racing bust, citations issued Watch out and be careful for other people while making videos.
    39 replies | 8215 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    08-02-2017, 01:23 PM
    Sticky started a thread Motiv 172.4 1/2 mile in N54
    Was pm'd the info as it was posted on Facebook. I'll have more shortly:
    56 replies | 5954 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    08-13-2017, 09:46 AM
    At this point everyone knows there was a large failure rate with these turbos. This was brought to BimmerBoost's attention by several vendors. Additionally, now you know why this thread was created: and why a certain someone jumped in beating their chest. The house of cards came crashing down. Now, there are certain issues that need to be addressed and probably they will be. Who knows. Not really BimmerBoost's problem at this point but having the best info in the tuning business is what we are about. Let's go over certain details: Pics: Now, you can look over those details and make up your own mind regarding what you see. To me, the allegation of inflated dyno runs or dyno cheating is much more serious. I don't know if it is true but I can say several very smart people pointed out to me based on the specs some of the numbers floating around don't add up. It's not like people will be allowed in to inspect so make of it what you will but also temper power/torque expectations and realize dynos sell things. There you have it.
    62 replies | 3405 view(s)
  • Brule's Avatar
    08-11-2017, 03:59 PM
    Brule started a thread AD Engineering Review in N54
    This is my review after dealing with Andy Divers on two different occasions one in 2016 and one current. December 2015 I ordered a 1000hp intercooler. I was told 2-3 week turn around. I asked if he could make 3 inch Inlet and outlet pipes. I paid for it straight away and got confirmation he could make 3 inch inlet and outlet. That reply was on the 31.12.2015 I sent several emails asking if it had been made yet and has it been shipped. I did not receive a response back until the 30.01.2016. I finally got a response that he's busy and it has been shipped. I received the intercooler 2 weeks later which is normal shipping to Australia. It wasn't made with 3 inch inlet and outlets like I asked. That was the first purchase. Next purchase was this year. I snapped an axle at the drags and wanted a decent setup. Only strong setup is the 8.8 diff, DSS axles and the custom drive shaft he makes. I PMd on a forum then called Andy the next day. Was told a 3-4 week turnaround for the axles but had 2 diffs still available. This was on 26.04.2017 I paid half on 27.04.2017 Paid in full 17.05.2017 Sent axles as cores 03.06.2017 (had trouble getting them out) Andy sent an email saying he will ship them on the 9th June. I requested if he could send tracking and asked it had shipped via email and by calling his workshop and leaving msgs. 07.07.2017 I got a reply saying sorry drive shaft shop made incorrect length. He said he would ship the diff and drive shaft straight away and get drive shaft shop to ship the axles straight to me. After not recieving any email replies or getting back to after leaving msgs on his phone again I asked for a refund on the 25.07.2017 Then I got an email straight back saying he sent an email last week why would I want a refund, Andy sent me a draft but did not send it from a few days earlier, it stated that he would ship it on Tuesday written on the 17th July, so I expected it all to ship the next day. I never received a tracking number or any response. 02.08.2017 Andy sends an email saying "your 8.8 has shipped" and some else who I don't know will send me tracking. Yet again I don't get a response or tracking. This is after emailing a few times just asking if it was everything as it didn't mention what parts were sent. Saying "8.8 has shipped" isn't much information. I called the workshop on Andys line and someone from Horsepower Barn answered and said Andy will be in tomorrow and he'll let him know I called. My msg was Its Brendan from Australia and I'm pissed off and I want my parts. I made it clear in phone msgs and emails that I'm pissed off and I'm sick of excuses. Still no response. Basically Andy does not do what he promises. He tells you your stuff has shipped then he does not reply to you. Longest wait was around 4 weeks. On average I have been waiting 2-3 weeks for any response. Then he just emails and says he will ship it today and you don't hear from him for weeks. I paid Andy for this in full over 13 weeks ago. Even paid deposit 2 weeks earlier and asked how long it would take, quoted 3-4 weeks. This cost around $7500au and my car has been sitting there waiting for this 8.8 diff, axles and driveshaft since then. More importantly I have missed most of the drag racing season. There is 3 meets left, one tomorrow. Biggest car event in my town is next week. I really thought I would of had this kit much earlier and payed for a few events after Andy said he had shipped the kit. I paid for a drag meet on June 30th as I was told the kit was shipped, which obviously it hadn't. Ive also paid for an event next week which is the largest street roll racing event here for the year. I purchased early bird rates as I never thought it would ever take this long. I have purchased around 30-40k of parts for this car and have never dealt with someone like this. A blatant disregard for their customers, this had been shown over and over. He has been the worst person I have dealt with. He wil reply frequently until you pay him then he doesn't care. I'm yet to receive anything and have been waiting over 3 months. Highly recommend staying away From AD Engineering.
    58 replies | 3953 view(s)
  • Traf's Avatar
    08-02-2017, 10:34 AM
    I was browsing ebay, then i found that. Anybody heard of Arcwerkz ?
    43 replies | 4303 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-26-2017, 01:57 AM
    I want to write an article on this but need more details. Pretty f'ing strong though right? Sucks to not have the full graph or rpm or correction factor (why?) but this is the upper end of the N54 spectrum. Cam tuning is a big part but I don't know if it's for the stock cams or Schrick:
    33 replies | 3272 view(s)
  • martymil's Avatar
    08-12-2017, 12:57 PM
    martymil started a thread VTT Shotgun Review in N54
    So a lot of you guys are asking or cant find a review so here goes. I'm highly critical of products that don't measure up and got into many heated debates and been locked out of threads because I step on a few to many toes. But I know also to give credit where its due. So a some came to me with a white box and upon opening it up I sighed, behold a shotgun kit which he wanted me to install and do a review on. Install was a breeze and it took a few hrs but I was really taking my time to make sure it fit properly. Looking at the fuel line kit and associated fittings I laughed and they where tossed in the bin promptly. I installed one of my upgraded lines and extended the lpfp sensor harness as it was too short. The water lines where tossed as well as I had made a much simpler better quality setup, but really there was nothing wrong with it just that it wasn't up to my standard. So really the only thing I kept is the bracket, bolts, drive kit and the parker fuel line. Investigating the fuel line as i known for these to fail in the past, I found that the line is only rated fair for e85 and not rated for unleaded at all by parker them selves. So with a bit more investigation there is no better hose on the market available as of yet rated at 6000 psi working pressure but also a massive overkill for our cars but no such thing in my book. Since he only wants to run 98 I was a little hesitant to install this line, but he said he will indemnify me of any responsibility if it fails and it will be all on him. Fine so we fire up the beast using the relocated original pump and we start hearing grinding and ticking noises. WTF. I quickly shut the car down and begin to investigate. Everything looks good nothing is rubbing, WTF ? We restart the car and we get a ticking whiring noise and occasional grind. Get the stethoscope out and start poking around, Viola the HPFP pump is ready for the parts bin in the sky. Fuck this is no good. All off a sudden it stops making noise and its all good. We go for a relaxed drive around the block and it all seems good but we know the pump is not long for this earth. Retune the car on the dyno and all seems good. In less than a week I get a call the noise is back, not wanting to drive the car I tow it back to my shed and in mean time I already ordered a new pump just in case the old one failed which it did. Not a good sign. I install the new pump and she runs like a purring kitten. We retune the car and things are looking even better from a HPFP pressure side of things. So his pump wasn't good in the first place. Now the pump has been running for over 3 months with no issues and the only thing that has worried me seems to be holding up fine. I'll give credit to Tony it seems he got it right now and things are looking good. I would post some pics but there is much to see as its all under the car.
    37 replies | 3152 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-24-2017, 05:44 PM
    Many European BimmerBoost members feel slighted as they do not have as many turbocharger options as US members. Well, in comes Lynx to the rescue as they are a European based N54 turbo option operating out of Switzerland. The Lynx turbochargers are available in two options: RT-650 and RT-750. As implied in the name, the 650 supports up to 650 horsepower and 750 up to 750 horsepower. Simple, right? Let's look at the design. The turbochargers feature cast manifolds and housings. The manifold diameter is larger than the hybrid options on the market as is the A/R of the turbine housing. High performance bearings are utilized. So what are the compressor wheels? RT-650 utilizes the TD04L-16T and the RT-750 the TD04HL-19T. The air intake is 2.0 inches in diameter compared to 1.75 inche for stock. You will need to upgrade pipes to accommodate the larger diameter. The turbine features 9 blades. Lynx states this makes it lighter than 11 blade setups as well as offering higher theoretical flow. Ok, so what is the pricing? Here you go: To order, go here: Further questions can be answered by @Donvittorio on the forum. BimmerBoost looks forward to seeing results from members trying out this option.
    36 replies | 1565 view(s)
  • langsbr's Avatar
    07-21-2017, 07:48 PM
    I think you need to separate the cast offerings into 2 groups - The "chinaframe" stock replacement style as Frankenturbo calls them, and a "high performance" 2 piece. Currently the Chinaframes are available from: Frankenturbo VTT Stage 2/2+ (new models) There can be varying differences in the manufacturing tolerances and quality but that is not to be debated here. In both cases, they can be considered a stock+ style manifold. Stock/OEM replacement with different machining for different wheels. The only "high performance 2 piece" currently available is: VTT GC VTT GC Lites MMP is coming out with their own "high performance 2 piece" manifolds sometime "soon". They've not released a date yet, but I would think this year, maybe within a few months. Mauricio said he expects improved spool and 850WHP potential from them. While there are a few sets of GCs around now, and we're seeing them trickle in, the MMP Group Buy got them into a LOT of people's hands. I think once the new manifolds are available, I'm sure a number of people will grab them and swap them over, and we'll start to see even more power. The only thing I saw from Pure was the thread from a year ago, and they claimed to never have announced anything. The picture looked quite a bit like the chinaframes though. I think that NOZ ball bearing stuff has a stage 2.5 now (at least they said they did). It has a 19T compressor, but I didn't see the details on the CHRA (TD03 or 4?) or the turbines? I am presuming it's chinaframe or stockframe based on the pricing and stage rating. Vendors - please correct anything I have wrong. I tried not to post assumptions, only what has been publicly disclosed.
    21 replies | 3742 view(s)
  • martymil's Avatar
    08-07-2017, 03:21 PM
    A SPEC-TACULAR Clutch Failure Excuse the pun but I couldn’t resist. I just wanted to let everyone know the problems I am having with SPEC, their SPEC-tacular lack of customer service and the dud clutch I was sold. The clutch failed after 2000 miles of use following a 600-mile run in period, no hard launches, no power runs. I bought the clutch from JD75 via Motiv in March 2016. I was getting misfires on the dyno because of the DMF and standard clutch so I thought, after doing a bit of research and seeing the bad reviews of SPEC clutches to buy the Motiv full face clutch as I only heard good things about them from my local supplier. So 3.5k AUD inc shipping was transferred and the clutch arrived promptly then installed. 2-3 weeks later we put the car on the dyno and behold no more misfires car runs awesome. We tickle the boost curve and tune a little then I'm off to do a few more kms before the next weekend’s track day. Track day comes and goes car is running awesome. The next step, car meets drag strip for the first time since installing the Motiv clutch (now I know SPEC) clutch and the car lays down 11.4 @ 127mph. At the time, its the twin turbo manual record and follows up with 11.8 @ 130mph with a bad take-off. Fast forward a few weeks and winter time was approaching as well as a few hundred more kms, I decided to put the car back on the dyno and adjust the duty bias a little as I was getting a couple of boost spikes here and there. This is where the trouble began, everything was fine till the last run and around 5500rpm the car misfired. We reset the ecu and the car ran normal again and then the tuner noticed the clutch take up went from being near floor level to almost being at the top of the pedal before you release it. Something wasn't right so the car came off thinking the slave cylinder let go. After replacing that, still the same thing. We re bled the system and still the same. We immediately put the car up on the hoist and begin to pull the gearbox out. We inspected every part that came off to make sure nothing was broken. Everything looked OK except fo the pressure plate. I’ve heard of clutch pressure plate bolts backing out but everything looked good till we saw the pressure plate and all the springs where all at different heights. It looked like the pressure plate had collapsed. The supplier took the clutch and sent it of to Motiv for inspection and repair. My shop took full measurements and photos of the clutch for my reference. Motiv was awesome from the start and they told us that it will be sent off to SPEC for inspection and warranty work, but this is where the alarm bells started ringing. I thought this was a Motiv clutch? Anyway, I gave all concerned the benefit of the doubt and followed the waiting game and process asked of me. I wait yet another couple of months and with multiple emails and conversations with Motiv and SPEC, they tell me the clutch is heavily worn and its going to cost $1250 US to rebuild plus freight. BULL TURDUCKEN CRAP! Warranty, nope!! I call them out and ask for the measurements of the clutch they have that has been returned and it doesn't match up with the measurements I have. Something is not right here. Do they even have the right clutch or just BS. The measurements quoted by SPEC were not correct and didn’t match my records. And this is where the correspondence got very limited and I was given excuses. The supplier in Australia was generously going to pay for the refurbishment as his hands were tied by Motiv and SPEC. Australian law says he is liable and has to pay to get me a replacement and pay for the repairs. This is not fair and I decided to do a bit more investigation. After doing a quick search I found SPEC has a bad reputation and poor customer service. So, basically this is where we are at now, I decided to tell my story to you guys here and basically avoid the SPEC brand all together. In mean time Ive been running a 550i clutch and a DMF flywheel and done 6000 miles, a skid pan day, 3 track days and over 50 passes at the drags and over 100 dyno runs with absolutely no issues. What do you guys think I should do?
    27 replies | 2152 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    08-11-2017, 02:09 PM
    Sticky started a thread Frankenturbo summed up in N54
    Credit to this goes to @fredcase I just thought it was succinct. Well, he left out the Play-Doh which is my personal favorite Frankenturbo story:
    25 replies | 2093 view(s)
  • Newguy123's Avatar
    07-23-2017, 01:57 AM
    Hey guys I decided to pull the trigger on some 2 peice light weight rotors and pads from racing brake. To give you some background I do a lot of 1/2 mile racing and have warped multiple sets of rotors and cracked pads from the high speed stops. Wanted to give some initial testing feedback on the RB OE replacement rotors and high temp XT910 street pads. I did a few consecutive 130mph down to about 40mph hard stops back to back after I bead them in. On the stock 135i rotors this would have warped the rotors and cracked the pads. The RB rotors and pads took it like a champ! No pedal fade no vibrations just a crisp bite at the pedal as I expected. These rotors performed flawlessly through my stress tests and I am confident they will not warp after the next 1/2 mile event.Since the high speed stops I have done 3 separate canyon runs with the new setup, they have performed flawlessly with no squeak and much less brake dust over the oem stuff. the pedal feel is different then stock, you really have to push harder on the pedal when coming in hot which is a little weird to get used to cus the stock pads bite so hard with such little input.... Prob why they warp so easy ha! These rotors are 2 peice so when it's time for replacement you can order the rotor rings by them selves and re use the aluminum hat to cut down on replacement costs. Also these rotors shave 10-12 lbs of rotational weight in the front and another 10lbs if you choose to buy the rears also. To me that is worth it in itself. I purchased a front set first cus I didn't see a ton of independent reviews on the full kit. After about a week with the front rotors and pads I knew I had to have the rears. The look and unsprung weight savings alone is well worth the cost in my book. The front pads retain the OEM brake sensor while the rear pads do not. As far as I know Racing Brake is the ONLY company out there that makes a 2 PC light weight OE replaceable rear rotor for the 135i. You can really feel the difference with these things on all 4 corners! the car feels really light on its feet and feels like it turns in quicker. If you purchase the front and rear rotors/pads together you save also to save some additional money at check out use code GS-10. :music-rockout: Here are some pictures....
    5 replies | 4936 view(s)
  • suspenceful's Avatar
    07-31-2017, 12:48 PM
    I ordered a VRSF 7.5" Race intercooler to help cool things down a bit. At high boost, these MMP Stage 3 turbos really heat things up and I was starting to see some really bad heat soak. It came with new couplers, t-bolt clamps, and the lower hard pipe upgrade. Luckily, I already had my hard pipe upgrade installed with couplers from my previous VRSF intercooler. I left them all in place to save time and was able to just swap out intercoolers after trimming plastic to fit the larger intercooler. I kept the new supplied hardware to sell with my previous intercooler. Let's first compare intercoolers. Stock vs. standard VRSF 7" vs. VRSF 7.5" Race intercooler. Definitely larger and definitely heavier. Let's take a closer look at the fin density and cooling bar size. Standard VRSF 7" intercooler: New VRSF 7.5" Race intercooler: Much better :awesome: now let's get this thing in the car! It required A LOT of cutting and trimming. Seriously. I thought this would be enough, but I was wrong. I had to cut even more before I could stuff this intercooler up in there. At least I was combating the weight of the heavier intercooler by removing tons of plastic, right? Now that it's in, does it work? My previous intercooler saw a 54 rise in intake temperature during a 28psi 60-130mph pull. The new intercooler only rose 5 during a similar pull with similar ambient temp. See light blue line on my logs. Before: After: Overall, very happy with the results! I'd highly recommend the VRSF 7.5" Race intercooler to anyone looking to cool things down a bit. Aside from the trimming, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't choose this intercooler over their other options.
    23 replies | 2466 view(s)
  • SpeedLimit?'s Avatar
    13 replies | 3511 view(s)
  • trevorlee02's Avatar
    07-29-2017, 06:23 PM
    trevorlee02 started a thread BBApp 2.0 GUIDE! in N54
    *** Check for updates at the bottom of this post! *** BB Flash Basics, Startup, and FAQ What is BB Flash? BB Flash is a free flash tuning program designed to supported by the community and offered for free for people to create their own tuning maps or use maps shared by others in the community to flash to their own cars for free. These maps are unlockable and are a much more "complete" flash to the DME. Multiple bin files are able to be flashed. If you need or would like to request a specific bin file to be flashed then you may request so from this link. Can I use BB Flash as a backend flash in conjunction with my JB4? Yes you can! In fact, Terry has a complete layout on how to do this on his forum The specific link is How do I get BB Flash and where do I start? You can find the BB Flash software in the downloads section of this forum. Connection to vehicle You will need an interface to connect your laptop to your vehicle. Any of the cables listed below will work: 1. Standard INPA K+DCAN cable (Amazon or EBay – Cheap) 2. Bavarian Technic Cable – with or without a vin available. ( Once you have the cable and have downloaded a map that someone shared with you, or you got from the download section located at the top of the forum, then you can proceed to the following: (WARNING: Although BB Flash has been successfully used on many vehicles this is not a commercially sold product and support is limited to the community, its users, and developer with any aftermarket OEM altering software or hardware there are risks involved in using it. If you do not understand what flash tuning is and this is your first aftermarket upgrade to your vehicle, chances are this might cause issues with your vehicle) Using the software 1) Install BB Flash Software on your computer by clicking the setup file you downloaded 2) Once installed then plug in your cable to your computer usb port. Make sure your computer recognizes the cable with either an audible sound notifying a new device detected or by the computer automatically installing required software drivers for the cable. 3) Plug your cable into the OBD2 port of your car (located below dash on left hand side) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO CONNECT VEHICLE TO A CHARGER NOW Note: If you have a JB4, Cobb, MHD, or any other tuning devices on your vehicle then please place them in the OFF position or flash your vehicle back to stock with the original interface that was utilized before proceeding!!! 4) Click the button "Identify DME" check your DME code and be sure the file you downloaded is specifically for your DME type, ie: I8XXX DME requires an I8XXX bin file to be flashed 5) Click “Read ECU” This will be your stock "map" file and can be reloaded later if you incur other issues loading modified files. DO NOT PROCEED IF YOUR VOLTAGE IS AT 0 IN THE BB FLASH HOMESCREEN. If you have an 07 or older N54 it is recommended that you connect a charger to your vehicle as these DME's are known as "K-line" and are more sensitive to low voltage and can cause incomplete read/writing of the DME files. Note: The Read portion will sometimes take longer than normal to read out your current bin file. We are working diligently to overcome this situation. 6) Write your new file to the DME. Click “Write ECU” and select the .bin file you either modified or downloaded. The write should not take nearly as long as the read, however the initial write may still take some time. After the first write, additional writes are only about 10 minutes. 7) BB Flash software will notify you with a status bar when the flash is complete. (If you had an incomplete flash please see below in the troubleshooting section) You are now complete and may unplug the cable from your vehicle, turn off the ignition (2 seconds), turn on the ignition, start the car and check out your new flash! FAQ SECTION Where do I get maps for BB Flash? Lots of maps are available for the BB Flash via the downloads section here at Any map will work no matter the source that it came from. If you are in need of a specific map type then feel free to click here and request a map for your specific type be sent to you. Please include your vehicle year, model, DME type, upgrades you have, and what you would like or not like with the tune. How do I modify/create my own maps? You will need to make sure you have the .xdf file for your specific DME code. Once you have this you need to download tunerpro. You can get this from their website. This is again, free software, but I believe they have a paid version that offers some more features. Troubleshooting: My voltage is 0 what should I do? You may need to click "read DME" multiple times for your voltage to show up. Sometimes this is caused by your computer software not communicating properly. Also it may not be a bad idea to have a charger hooked up to your car during your first read/write as they are lengthy. Usually not necessary for additional writes. Also make sure that your laptop is plugged in as this can cause an issue. I was writing a map and it stopped before completion? This is known as a partial write and may show up as an "authentication error". The write process happens in three stages, and if it fails during any of these stages the firmware on the DME is incomplete and will not operate the vehicle. This is probably caused by voltage. Make sure you have a charger on your car, and laptop/computer and try writing again. If this doesn't work the DME may have been left in a state where it will not receive a write and needs to be reset. Simply unplug the neg. terminal on the battery for a couple minutes to allow the DME to completely reset then reconnect and try again. If this fails you can also attempt a force write. I loaded a bin file and it completed fine, but now my car won't start/run correctly? It's probably just a bad bin i.e. poorly modified for one reason or another. This is where your stock bin comes in handy. Just reload it and start fresh, or try loading another bin that you know someone else has used successfully. When will there be updates to this application? Since the application is freeware, then the development typically happens when time is permitted for our current developer. Updates go out in a specific order though, major updates are released for known problems that keep occurring, then feature updates. The goal of this application is to allow everyone the opportunity to flash their vehicle for free! This leaves a significant amount of money on the table for you to spend on upgrades and items that will compliment your new flash. Items such as: JB4 COILS Twin Turbo Upgrades Inlets/Outlets Or various other upgrades. What about doing an Alpina Fash to enjoy with my newly tuned engine? Glad you asked this! The developer of this application gladly assists people with doing the Alpina, Sport, or custom transmission flashing by asking them here. This actually is a feature that we are eagerly attempting to place into the application due to the overwhelming requests. Flashing your vehicle with this software will very soon allow you to tune in launch modes, custom transmission shift points, as well as various other DME support. Special THANKS to those who have assisted in making this application what it is today! @Sticky :eusa-clap: @Terra :eusa-clap: @those who wish to remain nameless :eusa-clap: @BavarianTechnic for the ultimate interface connection :music-rockout: *Update 8/5/2017 -- We have temporarily removed the BB App 2.0 beta until I am able to release a quick updated revision to it. If anyone has a failed flash from using the application, then please send your logs (logfile.log) to Since writing this guide I have assisted at least 15 people with flashing their vehicles from BMW Standard Tools or BB App. There are still a couple out there that will be receiving help this weekend, if time permits. I am repairing the protocol command structure that was causing the failure with a select few bins that it seems everyone utilized that caused the recovery issue to occur. Thank you everyone for your patience and testing of the application; however, please remember that flashing your only vehicle with a beta app to gain a few horsepower is not worth having to walk or huffy yourself to work until I am able to assist you. I am hoping to have this revised version of the beta app ready by Sunday afternoon for release again. The full release will not be out for at least another couple of weeks due to assisting people with their DME's that are in recovery mode and the faulty file write on the particular bin files. There are multiple changes, modifications, additions, and revisions that are being added in to the application. Thank you for everyone's support and I look forward to the next beta then release in a couple of weeks. Trevor
    18 replies | 2869 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-29-2017, 07:08 PM
    889 rear wheel horsepower definitely is a ton of power. It also puts the N54 on the verge of breaking into that 9XX range people are eagerly anticipating. It likely also is no coincidence this pull comes hot on the heels of Motiv posting an 869 wheel run saying they have much more left in it. Now, the graph here is not the prettiest. The Motiv power curve is much cleaner (although they did not show a torque curve): As for the specs EMP Tuning has yet to respond (forgivable as it is the weekend) but it is a Doc Race single turbo kit. Boost is around 38 psi and the car is on the factory cams. Motiv's built motor setup with Schrick cams is definitely more efficient. More info to come but clearly there are a few N54's vying for that top spot at the moment. 9XX and more will come shortly.
    27 replies | 1497 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-25-2017, 07:05 PM
    Thought this was interesting. Need to see the polished finishes on more cars but some interesting color combos can be done.
    8 replies | 4224 view(s)
  • ihernandez7910's Avatar
    08-03-2017, 06:12 PM
    Anyone here running Stage 3 turbos with the OEM 335i dual 2.25 exhaust? At what power range should I expect enough restriction that It will keep the car from making power. Is 700 achievable with the OEM exhaust? This is a PE Moded exhaust with deleted cats of course
    13 replies | 2647 view(s)
  • Chris98m3's Avatar
    07-26-2017, 07:24 PM
    Chris98m3 started a thread Need help in N54
    I'm on maP 1
    13 replies | 2848 view(s)
  • ajoosten's Avatar
    07-30-2017, 10:53 PM
    Do any of you track guys or high HP guys actually NEED an after market or second oil cooler on your N54? I'm doing an engine rebuild and was thinking about just one more "while I'm in there" mod. Right now I am sticking with stock turbos but have all bolt ons and no meth. When I was detonating and jacked up the engine (over aggressive tuning,leaky fuel injector, lots of detonations, exploded spark plug which scored the cylinders) I noticed higher than normal temps but have never noticed them before that. This got me thinking about an extra oil cooler and obviously an engine rebuild.:crazy: I track the car and live in Texas so cooler the better.
    14 replies | 2016 view(s)
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