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  • gull123's Avatar
    03-21-2015, 06:11 PM
    gull123 started a thread RB versus VTT 2+ in N54
    Need some help here.Having an issue what turbo to buy for my BMW 135I ? VTT stage 2+ or Rb Turbos. I heard that RB's spool a lot sooner than VTT stage2+, but VTT has more top end.I think for daily driver maybe the RB's? Any feedback will be appreciated. re; Ed.:dance:
    167 replies | 3358 view(s)
  • Slicksilver's Avatar
    03-22-2015, 07:23 AM
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Todd-Copes-Horsepower-Barn/271045639582958 Dont know if link will work but in the Facebook page of horsepower barn/ AD engineering in Dallas, they just dyno tuned thier 6766 single turbo kit to 747 whp. I'm not sure but from what I read quickly online, I think dyno dynamics reads 14% lower than dynojet, it's the best load based dyno for tuning on the market I think and reads lower than mustang dyno. They should put it on a dynojet and might be the highest hp N54 yet, who knows :)
    49 replies | 1070 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 03:18 PM
    Magazine test numbers are becoming useless. Nevermind the fact some manufacturers like Ferrari hold magazines hostage if the numbers do not show what they want some of them just flat out cheat. Have you ever heard of press files being used in magazine test cars? What it means is that the car being tested is not the car you will be buying. BMW apparently had several press files for the F10 M5. This all really started with the turbo era as you could not play around with output using software back in the naturally aspirated M era the way you can now. So, some manufacturers turn up boost and disable certain safeguards (limp mode) in the ECU and send the car to be tested. It's a press beater car anyway so they do not care what happens to it. It makes sorting out what is real and fake incredibly difficult. For example, the fastest Lamborghini Huracan in the world runs the 1/4 mile in 10.59 @ 129.12 on a 1/4 mile drag strip. That is an aftermarket ECU tuned example mind you. So how does MotorTrend get 10.6 @ 132.8 out of it? What about Car and Driver's 10.4 @ 135? Somehow real world results on the drag strip do not match the magazines. This latest test is no exception as 12.0 @ 119 is indeed silly quick. That is not to say the F80 M3 and F82 M4 DCT can not replicate these numbers stock as they can. In negative density altitude with race gas. So owners need great weather and race gas to match Car and Driver. Or is it more likely that Car and Driver is not testing on a drag strip (they aren't) thereby inflating their numbers? Is it also possible BMW might be passing around press files again? Is it a combo? Who knows, but it is becoming increasingly difficult to trust magazine times as a realistic representation of what you can achieve yourself in the exact same car. P.S. For those interested in DCT vs. manual transmission discussion Car and Driver ran 12.3 @ 116 in their manual F80 M3 test car. P.S.S. The transmission isn't an automatic Car and Driver. Specifications VEHICLE TYPE:front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan PRICE AS TESTED:$84,325 (base price: $65,850) ENGINE TYPE:twin-turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve inline-6, aluminum block and heads, direct fuel injection DISPLACEMENT:182 cu in, 2979 cc Power: 425 hp @ 7300 rpm Torque: 406 lb-ft @ 1850 rpm TRANSMISSION:7-speed dual-clutch automatic with manual shifting mode DIMENSIONS: Wheelbase: 110.7 in Length: 184.5 in Width: 73.9 in Height:56.1 in Passenger/cargo volume: 96/12 cu ft Curb weight: 3613 lb C/D TEST RESULTS: Zero to 60 mph: 3.8 sec Zero to 100 mph: 8.5 sec Zero to 130 mph: 14.5 sec Zero to 160 mph: 25.8 sec Rolling start, 5-60 mph: 4.5 sec Top gear, 30-50 mph: 1.9 sec Top gear, 50-70 mph: 2.7 sec Standing -mile: 12.0 sec @ 119 mph Top speed (governor limited): 163 mph Braking, 70-0 mph: 153 ft Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.99 g FUEL ECONOMY: EPA city/highway driving: 17/24 mpg C/D observed: 20 mpg
    55 replies | 251 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 09:13 PM
    Well folks, its finally almost done. Yes its been two years, yes people have bashed on almost nonstop and for good reason, but they will soon need to find something else to complain about...:P Below are a few pics of a close to production VTT Stage 3 VTX-67R twin turbo kit, there are a few pieces missing such as a couple fittings, heat shield etc, but its very close to complete. We are shooting for a June 1st release date, and hopefully will be shipping our pre-orders a little sooner. If you have a kit on order please make your turbo choice, and get it over to us so we can start getting those ordered. We want to THANK ALL OF OUR PREORDERS for being incredibly patient, and staying the course, this will be the THE N54 turbo kit, you will not be disappointed! As always thanks for the support!
    44 replies | 1137 view(s)
  • jputtho2's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 07:04 PM
    First off, I owe HUGE thanks to Jake and the guys at Motiv Motorsports with all of their help with pointers on the tuning side of this and the very high quality products they offer. Also Huge thanks to Chad and Ryan Modified by KC who did the install and tuning on my car. Mike and Aaron and the guys at FFTEC for a very well made turbo kit, and last but not least Steve at Fuel-It taking care of me and my last minute change to the Stg 3+ lpfp! I wouldn't have been able to do this with my life's schedule being so busy with my rapidly growing business and my family. Anyone that knows me knows I'm extremely anal about my cars and in fact was the first time in 10 years that I have trusted someone to work on my cars other than myself. (My cars prior I did all of the assembly, fab work, tuning, etc). This setup is fairly simple as far as mods go and can be replicated easily now that there is a growing support in this community of quality vendors such as the ones I listed above. It's a 100% stock unopened 64k mile long block. It's what I consider a bolt on car. Still has every single creature comfort as one that came from the factory minus the windshield washer reservoir. Well the reservoir is still there the full neck is removed but A/C, heat, cruise, Nav, etc, etc, is still all there and functional. Fuel was 100% e85. To be exact it was e70 winter blend from the pumps that I blended e98 in to bring it up to ~e82. The pumps here should be switching to the summer blend e85 here in a month or so. Injector duty cycle on the port injection was 80% and I can't remember exactly what the DC was for the direct injection but it was roughly the same. I would say its safe to assume 900whp on 100% e85 with this fuel system isn't an issue. MODS: - FFTEC twin scroll Top Mount Precision billet dbb 6466 T4 1.0ar divided, twin Tial MVS WG's - Motiv Motorsports PI-1000 kit - Fuel-It "Hulk"Stg. 3+ lpfp - Cobb AP (Controls the DME/DI) - Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 (controls the PI and boost) - Custom harnesses made by Chad at Modified by KC - Clutchmasters FX850 twin disc - VRSF 7" IC - VRSF charge pipe - Tial Q bov - 4" to dual 3" exhaust The final number was 861whp at 250-255KPA or a peak of 36psi. We were having interference on the rpm pick up for the dyno so I'll post two graphs, one over vehicle speed and the other with engine speed but the engine speed is going to be pretty erratic due to the interference on the pick-up and lost signal. Exact TQ is unknown on the 800+ pulls because of this. It's around 750-760wtq which is low because we had to ramp boost in to keep torque lower due to a "Too Much Torque" limp mode if we gave it all right away on basically anything over 775whp. Otherwise, following what it was was making for tq I would guess it would be around 800wtq and spool would have been about 300-500rpm quicker. The car has A LOT more left in it and this number can easily be broken. My goal today was to make big power but also be able to enjoy after the dyno. I plan on pushing it again this winter until I run out of turbo or the motor lets go and then it'll be a fully forged bottom end, possibly a Motec m142 to simplify the tuning side, and try and do something with the head to make it more rev happy because it really could use another 500-1000rpm. I wouldn't be surprised if the n54 could handle 900-915whp stock. For how long though is the question. I didn't want to be the test mule for the limits of the motor right now. Anyway, we made I think 75-80 pulls on e85 alone, half of those were well over 700whp and I think 5 pulls over 800whp (805, 813, 832, 858, 861). Pull after pull it just wanted more and never showed any signs of slowing up. Here is the 861whp and 832whp graph over vehicle speed. We did make an 858whp pull but the boost control was unhappy bouncing all over hitting target then falling on it's face. This is the 861whp graph with tq reading over engine speed and also showing the dyno losing signal because of the RF interference with the pick-up lead. And then same graph over vehicle speed showing the erratic tq readings again from the reason above. Here is the video of the 861whp pull. (excuse the mismatched wheels, I have new DPE wheels that I was waiting till after the dyno to put on)
    27 replies | 757 view(s)
  • richpike's Avatar
    03-24-2015, 06:54 PM
    richpike started a thread New S65 Record? 785whp in S65
    Saw this on the other forum. Built motor, ESS VT3. 6mt. Baseline is 93oct, stock headers. 732whp Next he added LT headers. 765whp Finally did a mix of race gas and a smaller pulley. 785whp. Pretty impressive. Lots happening in the E9x chassis lately. I'd love to see some of these high HP M3s and the new high HP 335s battle it out at a 1/2 mile event. -Rich
    27 replies | 336 view(s)
  • ChuckD05's Avatar
    03-22-2015, 10:55 AM
    Recently I have started to log my car again since the weather is getting a little warmer. The car needs some TLC but isnt in terrible overall condition but yesterday i loaded the MHD flasher and just did a few logs, and noticed the same thing i noticed on my jb4 logs two weeks ago. A big disparity from one bank to the next. Should i just replace my two primary o2s? Or what could cause this? log below. The log was right after i swapped the jb4 out and prob not the next example of a good log but it shows the disparity from one bank to the next accross the board. LMK what you think... log: http://datazap.me/u/chuckd05/log-1427035714?log=0&data=4-6-12-13-16-19&trim=1&tmin=69.40&tmax=99.60
    20 replies | 329 view(s)
  • drfrink24's Avatar
    03-22-2015, 09:25 AM
    Lets hear some opinions: Been lightly modifying cars since 2001 (GTI, '04 STI and now 08' 335xi) have done some fair amount of wrenching, but nothing major. But nothing will remain stock in my garage. Here are my considerations: 1. Used GTR (goal is under $50k in 1-2 years from now). Will do e85 conversion w/full exhaust. Pros - Dream car, fast, visceral. Cons - Cost of ownership insane, even if you do your own work. One mechanical failure away from a $10,000 repair bill. Automatic transmission as good as it is, I fear will undermine the fun of driving it. 2. Used 996TT (goal under $40k in 1-2 years from now). Will modify, even consider turbo-upgrade. Pros - Lower cost of ownership, fast, manual transmission, (reliable, don't laugh, its supposedly true!) Cons - Don't really care for 911s. Will be a 12+ year old car for $40k+. No trunk. 3. Near new BRZ/FRS w/turbokit Pros - Cheap, fast w/turbo kit, two major tuners are within 50 miles of me (Full Blown and MAP), lowest cost of ownership. Cons - RWD only, seriously deviating from the stock setup 4. Keep my 08' 335xi (65k miles, well maintained, no issues) and upgrade to RB or VTT w/intake. Pros - Paid off, has spec 2+ clutch + full bolt ons w/meth, very familiar with platform. Comfort. Cons - AWD system is sub-par (not performance), have owned for 4 years.
    17 replies | 322 view(s)
  • M_Performance's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 07:01 AM
    Hi guys, my intention is not at all to trigger a discussion of whats best or better, it is just a gathering of adresses to revert to for e-tunes with COBB AP with the N54 engine, maybe with first hand experience of guys that already had their cars tuned by the respective tuner. I live in Europe, so all the ProTune addresses do not really suit me and I believe its better to have an etune so that I can test a mapping under different real road conditions, different fuels etc. I am aware of PTF, for me it would just be great to get some contact details of other official vendors offering e-tunes to compare what they offer and go with one of them or get maps from different sources to try what suits me best. Hopefully this does not offend any offical vendors, but I guess it would also help other people like me to know some adresses that can help out with custom tunes. Would be great if others can chime in and list some contacts with a known good reputation who know what they are doing in terms of COBB, N54 and etunes. Thanks in advance, any support is highly appreciated. I'll just start the list adding the sources I know: 1) Pro Tuning Freaks 2) Wedge
    15 replies | 335 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 11:37 PM
    Remember last month when the 2015 Nissan GT-R Nismo edition spanked the brand new 2015 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 around the Big Willow Springs roadcourse? It was not even close despite the Z06 pulling more on the skidpad, having more power, more torque, weighing less, and offering better braking. It certainly made everyone scratch their heads as the result did not make sense based on the specifications as well as the performance figures recorded by MotorTrend themselves. Every aspect on paper favors the Z06. Yet the GTR has two big aces up its sleeve with all wheel drive and its dual clutch transmission. Not to mention despite the power, torque, and weight not being in the GTR's favor it accelerates faster. So what gives? What happened? The rear suspension was significantly out of alignment. Yep, that's all it took to skew the results. Here, Motortrend explains it: The Z06 suspension allows you to tweak basically everything for track duty including the rear caster. Does it make a difference? How about a 2.1 second difference around Big Willow? From 1:27.10 to 1.25.00. That's huge. That is night and day. It also puts the Z06 ahead of the GTR as its specs already told us it should be. Part of the problem as well is that Big Willow is not as forgiving as other tracks. Chevrolet intends to offer a mode now softens the dampers in a Rough Track Mode. That says a lot about Big Willow. It also says a low about how Chevrolet engineers are not sweeping this under the rug but fixing the car's teething issues. Ferrari they are not. What about another big point? Well, it was suggested that the manual transmission was part of the problem. Automatic Z06's were scarce last month and they still are but MotorTrend did get one to test. It somehow put up a slower lap than the manual car at 1:25.76. This may be due to the gear ratios in the manual favoring a track like Big Willow. There is still a problem with this do-over if you will. The GT-R did not get another shot and Nissan was not allowed to look over its car and send it in again. Additionally, this was not done on the same day in the exact same conditions. So, there are flaws here and we will have to wait for more data. We have a long way to go before the dust settles.
    21 replies | 130 view(s)
  • Stucks's Avatar
    Yesterday, 07:56 PM
    Stucks started a thread pcv heater element in N54
    So ive seen a couple of threads that mention this, but not a whole lot. for those installing aftermarket inlets like the tft or vtt units, what are people doing with these? Its the little wire that runs to the recirculation point on the rear of the factory intake tube where the outlet of the bms occ connects to. are there any effects of unplugging this and leaving it that way? ive heard rumors it makes the water pump continuously run after you shut the car off, but is this fact or fiction? thanks.
    17 replies | 163 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 06:30 PM
    This is not the first time we have seen something like this. Anyone remember the marketing material for the E82 BMW 1M showing it driving around with the E30 M3? This got people saying the 1M was a return to the BMW driver's car producing fun and cheap lightweight models. This despite the fact the E30 M3 has absolutely nothing in common with the E82 1M and it will also have nothing in common with the F87 M2. This is what BMW head of design Adrian van Hooydonk stated, "The E30 M3 has a really big fan base, and we are going to be taking cues from it for a future product." Not really saying much there, now is he? Perhaps he will incorporate something from a styling standpoint that serves as some kind of homage or link to the original E30 M3. From an actual M car standpoint the M2 and 1M are nothing like the E30 M3. The cars are not built for DTM homologation purposes. They do not have naturally aspirated motors. They do not have four-cylinder high revving naturally aspirated M motors designed for racing. In the case of the 1M that particular car does not even have an M motor under hood. Once you factor in the weight difference between the E82 1M at 3339 pounds and E30 M3 at 2857 pounds and that the original was actually built for DTM competition you realize this is nothing more than marketing speak. The 2016 F87 M2 is expected to come with a tweaked N55 engine offering 370 horsepower and likely will have a DCT option. Considering the F22 M235i weighs 3494 pounds do not expect some new E30 M3. It won't even be a new E46 M3. Expect an M235i with some minor tweaks. Just like how the 1M was a 135i with some minor tweaks (and no M motor). Bringing up the E30 M3 is just marketing speak. Nothing more, nothing less. Source
    15 replies | 40 view(s)
  • BostonBeemah's Avatar
    03-22-2015, 12:57 PM
    Still haven't found a good tutorial on how to do this and was wondering if someone could shed some light on the proper way to do it. Something along the lines of this: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthread.php?35683-Alpina-B3-flash-Part-II-DIY-for-NOT-working-paddles-shifters-after-flash I know that there is going to be some variations between IJE0S(MSD81), I8A0S(MSD80), and ILA0S(MSD81, 335is). There are also different ZB versions from the dealer for wastegate rattle fixes and whatnot but a general outline would be a big help for a lot of people. Another thing is that Ken (Wedge) also checked how many times my car was flashed which I can't remember how to do. I was having a VIN mismatch issue because I was using the BMS backend with their car's VIN attached instead of building off my stock bin. Thanks!
    12 replies | 253 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 08:05 PM
    With Texas2K15 entering full swing we are going to get several videos like this where heavyweights slug it out on the highway. Those heavyweights being the Nissan GTR and Lamborghini Gallardo which are currently the two main platforms vying to be kings of the highway. We have seen this rivalry go back and forth but as of late power levels are nearing astronomical numbers. Switzer showed a somewhat sandbagged (partially due to wheelspin) graph of 1865 horsepower at all four wheels from their Goliath. As for how much power the UGR 2R+ Gallardo is making that is a good question as UGR also sandbags quite a bit. What we do know is that it is making 1800+ to the wheels and that the last time a battle similar to this took place the UGR 2R+ Gallardo laid waste to everything on the highway. Not this time though. The Gallardo jumps twice and as soon as it is beginning to be reeled in he gets off the gas. The third time is the charm but the horrible filming and camera angles do not give us a look at what happens although clearly the GTR pulls that time. Why the split view showing two forward views? Why no rear or side view? We do not know. But we do know this is far from over although the GTR's have gotten much stronger.
    13 replies | 175 view(s)
  • 3000gt MR's Avatar
    Today, 07:29 AM
    I've had a lot of questions regarding some of my comments regarding PI injection. I'm not even close to the most experienced tuner but i have done a lot in the past and have found things out the hard way The quick down and dirty. The #55 injectors that people are using flow 55lbs @ 43.5 (578cc/Min) (standard psi for fuel injector flow benchmark and 99% of EFI engines) and we are running them at 72psi ( So they really flow 744cc/min) Take Josh's (MR2 Josh) for example 861WHP 100% e85 and 80% IDC and his HPFP is about 80% from what he said. That is a shit ton of fuel and still has a lot of head room (80% is a good peak IDC). This is way to much for anyone running less than 860whp. Even though they are considered secondary fueling they need to be power matched to the engine. You want to be around 75% idc at your peak power/rpm to leave some head room and not over work the injectors. This can easily be done with a few calculations. Batch firing is what scares me when the injector is open for such a short period at such a high power and RPM. Terry is only at 30 or 35% at 600+ on straight E85. To me that injection window is way to short and i wonder if thats why he is having timing pulls and cant figure it out. Here is the secondary PI injector window based off Terrys published results. RPM IPW IDC 4000 10ms 33.3% 5000 8ms 33.3% 6000 6.65ms 33.25 I know its not 33% across the board it probably starts off lower and rises, so technically these numbers would be even smaller. Normal IPW is more than double that. With race fuel these numbers would be in upwards of 30% less. If your barley using them and don't plan on making much more power I would defiantly go to a smaller injector and increase the IPW. That's just me though. It's not a one size fits all. On batch firing each injector is spraying at 6 different phases of rotational event. What would help greatly is if we knew what the stock HPFP puts out with a 1.00 scalar so that we can maintain HPFP headroom and calculate remaining flow for PI for given HP levels. Any insight on this. I'm sure if i sat down and thought it out with some calculations we could come up with a good guesstimate Terry@BMS SteveAZ I wrote this up pretty quick and copied and pasted from PM's I've answered. From my own tuning experience on normal EFI's, injector lag times and IPW are huge players in proper tuning. To each their own. Please comment with any insight or added info.
    11 replies | 192 view(s)
  • 135pats's Avatar
    03-23-2015, 12:33 PM
    Howdy everyone, I've been out of town for most of the last two months on work, so am just now getting around to tuning the port fuel and all that jazz. Tuning is going great, big credit to Jake there. However, Upon starting the car yesterday it died almost immediately and threw the following codes. Nothing else, just these suckers. Limp Mode (result) P2ABD (cause?) P2ABC (cause?) Car totally sputtered out, it wasn't happy. It's not missing at all, it's not tuning related (I think?), and the above codes appear to be solely MAP sensor related. My MAP sensor on the Chargepipe flange had one of the retaining bolts back out awhile back, so it's currently held in by the o-ring and one bolt. It hadn't caused issues on stock turbos but i'm leaning towards that being the culprit? Flip side of the coin is that the single bolt has it plugged into the flange pretty securely, it's not like I can wiggle it all over the place. If it's not that, i'm leaning towards it being a faulty sensor. I can't really think of what else the issue could be. Again, the car otherwise is totally happy...But when I start it, it sputters out as if I unplugged a vac source. That + the codes are what lead me to the MAP sensor. What do you all think? Thanks as always for the help :handgestures-finge: Once this is fixed its 25PSI time :dance:
    12 replies | 146 view(s)
  • Fishayyy's Avatar
    03-20-2015, 02:23 PM
    Fishayyy started a thread Want to Buy: WTB HPF Gen 2 Exhaust in Buy/Sell - Parts
    WTB HPF Gen 2 exhaust for my 2008 335i coupe. If you don't want it because it's too loud I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands! Price negotiable.
    10 replies | 216 view(s)
  • sammy_0559's Avatar
    03-23-2015, 04:41 PM
    Customer had taken his car to get diagnosed at a nearby BMW dealer. Its a Stock fairly clean car right under 100k miles. Towed it back to my shop after him getting a heart sinking quote from the Dealer. After some trouble shooting pulled DME and tested MOSFETs with 1 obviously out. It was not throwing codes out of the ordinary.. just Bank One literally not firing at all. I can't imagine how someone with a full straight face can almost force someone to get bogus repairs done. It just makes me think how many people and families get screwed for what could be a basic repair. Makes me sick. I literally went down the list 1 by 1 and ruled out everything was working properly. Probably good preventative.. but as far as working properly...they were working fine.
    5 replies | 237 view(s)
  • manbeer's Avatar
    03-22-2015, 06:58 PM
    manbeer has just uploaded I8AOS e50 aggressive map! Euro .bin i used as base
    9 replies | 136 view(s)
  • ajm8127's Avatar
    03-19-2015, 08:56 PM
    ajm8127 started a thread Oil Pan Gasket and RTV in N54
    I have my oil pan off right now and I am waiting on a new gasket in the mail. I notice the rubber of the old gasket got brittle in the 110,000 miles or so it was on the car. If I had to guess, I would say this is why it leaked. I know it is not typical to apply RTV to a gasket, but in this case I think it may make sense, especially because the choice of gasket material seems to be questionable. Unlike the top face of the bedplate which has a groove for the RTV (that just about will never leak) the bottom face of the bedplate and the mating surface of the pan are smooth to make contact with the ribs in the gasket and form a seal. This works fine until the gasket material gets hard. Normally you would not apply RTV to two completely smooth mating surfaces because it would just be pushed out when you tightened the bolts. Also as the parts expand and contract due to heat cycles the thickness of the RTV between those two smooth faces may not be enough and a leak could form. This is why the bedplate has a groove for the RTV. The oil pan gasket has that strip of metal which prevents the gasket from getting crushed. I think that with a thin coating of the black RTV on the top and bottom of the gasket, once the rubber became hard the RTV would still be soft and the seal would not leak. I suspect there would be enough RTV in the grooves of the gasket to allow enough flex in the RTV to not allow a leak to form, ever. Do you guys think this is a good idea, or should I just put the gasket in without RTV?
    7 replies | 118 view(s)
  • trading10's Avatar
    03-21-2015, 07:51 PM
    I just fixed a bad vacuum leak on my 07 e92 335i 6MT, and later decided to use my Proceed Open Flash Tablet to reset the throttle adaptation data to see if that would fix a flat spot in the first 20% of the throttle. Did that, got a bouncing idle immediately afterward, which was ultimately fixed by using the 'ignition on, hold gas down for 30 secs, turn off ignition for 2 mins' trick. Throttle dead spot is a little better, but I'm very curious if it might be a good idea to reset everything else I possibly can with the OFT. Here's the list of things you can reset on the OFT: Knock sensors Lambda Intake manifold Throttle AFR 2nd Air Inj. Octane Var. Learning VANOS WT Transmission DME I've searched multiple forums, searched google a lot, but have found very little information about doing these resets. I want to know which ones would be good to do after fixing a vacuum leak that has been present for a very long time (car was only producing about 4.6lbs boost max, but now is 16-18lbs, easy). My thought is that most of the stored adaptive data that was captured while the car was in that condition is probably still having an effect on fuel mixture, boost, timing, etc, etc. Resetting everything to some baseline, and then letting it rebuild the adaptive data. FYI, I'm running the OFT Stage1 map, on a stock car. Manufacture date of 9/06, and uses KLINE communication for those of you that know what that is. Reset ALL, some, in what order?
    5 replies | 154 view(s)
  • Slicksilver's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:17 PM
    So here are some pretty cool dyno results with upgraded inlets I sell and with wedge tuning them. Below is a 4th gear comparison of my best dyno run before inlets in 4th gear and the two good runs I had this this week with the new inlets in 4th gear. As you can see picked up power across the board. +32whp max horsepower , +51whp midrange , +23whp top end just before 6k, +22wtq max torque . Also shown is a dyno from from my previous dyno session without inlets were i did a pull with stock tuning on full bolt ons and 100% E85 and you can see made just over 300whp which is par for the course for a dynojet on car with those mods so dyno doesn't read abnormally high. Also consider this is on a 6AT with 3% more drivetrain loss than 6MT. Overall very happy with results. After discussing the results and logs with wedge today after the dyno, we both agree there is a possibility for a dyno glory run in a couple weeks with more tuning to try and get over 500whp magic barrier for stock turbos. We will try to tune and dyno test over the next couple weeks or so to see if we can brake that limit on the dyno :) Going to be fun trying. Mods on the car: MMP 2.5" turbo inlet intake kit, intercooler, catless downpipes, TFT charge pipe, 50 mm BOV, meth injection dual nozzle, fuel it stage 2 LPFP, NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped .022", stock everything else Fuel: 100% E85 I have been trying to blow these turbos since September of last year running really high WGDC and boost and that's how i got the previous non-inlet dyno results but the turbos wont blow. Every time i drop the DPs (3 times in past couple months) I check shaft play and no issues and no smoke out exhaust. Amazing little suckers. One thing I figured out from the dyno runs taking a look at the data later is that the tires were slipping and I didnt notice so there and made the most power on the 3rd run where the tires were the warmest and only slipped a little, more power to be had with properly warm tires that dont slip, lol! You can see that in the engine speed vs road speed plot below and the dips in the power vs engine speed graphs. Also below is first the datalog of my previous dyno run shown on the chart (447whp max) and the log of my current max hp run. Discalimer: This is a wedge tune that runs a bit outside the stock pressure sensor range in low end, not for the faint at heart and risks were understood by me, requested by me, and went against BQ and Wedge recoomendation to do it without being able to log where the boost was exactly but I wanted to test max power with the inlets. Not reccomended for others ;) I just got my N20 sensor and harness and will be logging with JB4 pass through gauge function the boost curve in the next week or so. You can see that it is running several psi more of boost at far less WGDC in the top end. The reason for this is the pressure loss due to the highly restrictive stock inlets. Think about when you upgrade intake filters, what are you really accomplishing if you are still sucking all that are through those pancake flat turbo inlet pipes and about a 1.5 inch tiny tube at the bottom where it goes into the turbo, that is the horrible intake choke point to the airflow that my 2.5" inlet pipes get rid of!! They will flow 178% more airflow than stock inlet pipes because of the MUCH larger flow through areas. disclaimer: that flow calc is based strictly on the difference in flow through area ratios, no bench testing has been done. Turbos increase pressure by increasing the pressure ratio of the air density. A turbo can only do a max pressure ratio based on its design. The stock TD03-10tk3 turbos on the N54 can only do a max of 2.3 pressure ratio at 5k rpm (published by Mitsubishi on the compressor map for this turbo) which is around the rpm where most people make peak power on the N54 with stock turbos. So if the ambient pressure is 14.7 psi and turbo can only do 2.3 pressure ratio the max boost it can produce, assuming no pressure loses, at 5k rpm is around 19.1 psi. This number can be increased a bit (<1 psi) by spinning the turbos into the inefficiency range and using E85. Now let’s say you have restrictive inlets that cause pressure loses as in the case with the N54 where the inlets were designed for just 7-8psi boost by the turbos' stock tune, at high boost demands and air flow (high CFM airflow) you could easily be losing 1 psi just from the inlets. So the pressure into the turbo could be 13.7 psi @5000 rpm and PR of 2.3 (13.7*2.3-14.7 ambient) yields a max boost possible of 16.8psi. This is exactly why you see stock turbos drop off to 16-17 psi around 5000 rpm to redline on everyone’s dyno, the turbos are choked because the inlets are choking them and that causes the turbo to work really hard and generate a lot of heat and backpressure and intake air temperatures and WGDC sky rocket because of that if you run up the max possible boost. So you see that by removing the horrible choke point restriction by the inlet pipes you free up your turbos to run more boost with less stress and really open up the performance potential of the car for higher boost tunes than stock boost. The inlet kit is $450. Email me at mmperformanceparts@gmail.com if you are interested in buying. Picture of kit below and installed in engine bay. There are some other details about the kit but I will post another thread that announces the kit itself, this is mainly a dyno results thread for these inlets. Big props to @WedgePerformance and @BuraQ for helping me tune the extra air flow from the inlets. oh and full disclosure, I make these in my garage, picture of kit on my garage floor ;)
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