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  • GiveEmTheDD's Avatar
    01-25-2015, 04:40 PM
    Hi everyone, The last 24 hours has been crazy, but the results speak for themself. Yes, you read correctly, my car just made 607awhp/618AWTQ. Background: Over the last year or so, I have been fortunate enough to dedicate some much needed wrench time to my e92 n54 AT 335XI. Back in Nov, I was finally able to get my car to the track, and cut the XI record, running an 11.363 1/4 mile. My mods at the time were: FBO, e40 fuel, RB Turbos and some outstanding flash tuning my BQ and WedgePerformance. At the time, Rob@RB, BQ/wedge, and myself were thrilled with the results, but in all honesty I wanted to hit 10s. Since November, I was searching for more ways to get more EFFICIENT power. I happened to stumble across a post in a 335 facebook group, someone had posted a dyno graph showing standard RB turbos making over 600whp, what made it even more astounding was the power was all the way to redline. After doing some research, and poking around some other boards, I found a few threads talking about the results. Honestly, I was shocked with the comments from board members and a few vendors. I saw words and phrases that essentially were calling the dyno and owner a fraud, fake, "we tried that already it didn't net much" and standard RBs can't make that power. Nevertheless, I was still curious, so I found Brian May's # and left him a voicemail. He gave me a call back about a day later, most of the stuff he was going over, honestly was way too advanced for me to fully understand, but after we spoke, I did some math on my own and it made sense. I had stayed in contact with Brian over the next few months, and we finally nailed down a shipping date to get me the 1st set of inlets. In anticipation for the new inlets, I figured my RB turbos, although nothing wrong with them, could use a "refresh." I was hearing exceptional feedback on Robs VSR balancing, and after speaking with a few board members who were using some of his billet wheel options, I contacted Rob about giving my RBs a refresh. I let Rob know I was planning on running Brian's inlets, and was very anxious to see what a fresh, updated (15T billet wheel, Vsr balanced, clipped, thrust upgrsded) RB could do. Fast forward to last weekend- Both Brian, and Rob delivered ahead of schedule and I was able to get the entire new setup installed in about 20 hours over the weekend, and the rest is pretty much history. Every aspect of Brian's kit fit perfectly, and went in without a hitch, and the turbos that Rob sent were equally beautiful in their own right. I ran the car around town a bit using the same map from BQ/Wedge at the track, and right away I noticed 2 things- the sound coming from the engine bay was intoxicating and the car pulled like an absolute freight train. Extremely anxious to see exactly how much more power we were making, I hit the dyno last night, and well the results are CRAZY. The Green Run- RB turbos, stock inlets (map I ran at track to cut 11.363), e60 fuel The Blue Run- New RB turbos, TFT inlets, SAME MAP as Green run LOL, e60 fuel The Red Run- New RB turbos, TFT inlets, Prelimiary revision by BQ/Wedge, about e60 fuel Sorry guys for the novel, but I wanted to give everyone as much of the story as I could. I want to give a huge thank you to Brian May@Trueform Technologies, Rob@RB Turbo and last and certainly not least Ken and D@ BQ Tuning by WedgePerformance for throwing that preliminary map together for me last night. I will say there is PLENTY of room left in my setup, I don't even think we exceeded 50% wgdc to hit 607 AWHP, and I've got my eyes set on a 10 second 1/4 pass in the near future. Thanks again team
    112 replies | 2714 view(s)
  • dzenno@PTF's Avatar
    01-26-2015, 11:03 PM
    Given recent developments in flash based tuning we wanted to offer our insight into the inner workings of the N54 DME when it comes to boost control tuning or more specifically, PID based boost control. Boost control in the N54 OEM DME as well as most modern electronic boost controllers out there is based on what is called a PID algorithm. PID algorithms aren't exclusive to boost control and are applied to various systems where correction to a signal can be applied by feeding the actual value of the signal through the algorithm and adjusting control for it automatically by comparing setpoint/requested to actual and adjusting the controlling device which in the case of boost control is pulse to a boost control solenoid. Concept of a PID algorithm is quite simple. It is based around knowing two values: 1) Setpoint - in the case of boost control this is requested boost pressure that the DME is targeting for a given Load 2) Actual Value fed into the PID algorithm - in the case of N54 boost control this is the signal coming from the OEM TMAP sensor feeding back a 0-5V value representing absolute pressure DME converts the analog 0-5V signal coming off of the TMAP sensor into engineering units based on the Map Conversion table you can find in your maps. OEM TMAP sensor is a 2.5bar sensor. That means it can read 2.5bar of absolute pressure. This means your actual boost will vary based on your atmospheric/barometric pressure which needs to be subtracted from 2.5bar to understand how much readable range you've got out of your MAP sensor. This readable range above your barometric is what is referred typically as the word we all love and we're here for, "BOOST" (i.e. positive pressure or pressure above barometric). The OEM N54 DME works on the principle of Load based tuning and PID based boost control. Load is a calculation based on various parameters primarily around "boost" (i.e. pressure at the MAP sensor - barometric presure) and charge air temp which in turn calculate into Mass Air Flow (MAF). N54 doesn't use a MAF sensor to meter airflow on the intake side. It calculates/infers it based on other values mentioned. In order to make boost from the turbos the DME regulates boost control solenoids via a PWM (pulse-width modulated) signal pulsing them and allowing vacuum to hit the wastegate actuator. The frequency of that pulse/signal is what is typically referred to as wastegate duty cycle (WGDC). This is where PID based boost control comes in and helps the DME regulate the amount of WGDC applied to the solenoids so that Target Load is hit as required. Very few of us speak about our tunes in terms of target load and it makes sense as most are used to talking about "Boost". While the DME targets a given load and given that Load is defined based on primarily boost+IAT+compressor maps and airflow modelling around stock turbos/intakes/intake pipes it ends up calculating a Requested Boost level. In your Cobb datalogs you can monitor this value by looking at the Req. Boost Abs. channel. You can refer to the Req. Boost Abs. as the DME's Setpoint for the PID based algorithm. When using Cobb's ATR software there is a hard limit at 1.28bar in terms of maximum Requestable boost. If for any reason your car boosts past this level the DME's safety mechanism will kick in to prevent motor damage due to what it perceives as an uncontrollable boost condition for its settings. For a tuner using ATR to get around this issue and provide a smooth tune they need to effectively remove this first DME safety by calibrating tables related to boost control and throttle management. In other words, if at any point in time the turbos were to spike boost and cause it to overshoot target to say 35psi instead of where they've set/expect your tune to be, given how they've set the DME tables up to get that extra 2-5psi out of your car, it ends up being quite unsafe and won't have the DME intervene as it normally should/would. With appropriate PID control and DME failsafes in place the signal to the solenoids is taken way, DME closes throttle causing DVs/BOV to open and vent boost and the DME goes into limp mode. If you've been around the N54 scene long enough or even owned an N54 for while, especially a tuned one, you know that there are countless N54s out there that have had an experience with either overboost (30FE) or underboost (30FF) induced limp mode issues that otherwise could've ended up in a tune that knocked damaging the motor potentially ending in a really unnecessary and expensive repair. Some N54 ROMs, such as the I8A0S and IJE0S, have had support added by Cobb (i.e. race code) so that the full range of the OEM TMAP sensor can be tuned with PID based boost control and the DME safety net entirely in place. It is only available with AccessTuner Pro (ATP) software and only by request to Cobb from a licensed protuner shop. Even with the above race code in place going past the limits of the OEM TMAP sensor with flash only tuning carries an extreme level of risk for a motor. N54 is a stout motor that we all know can take quite a beating but that hasn't prevented engine failures in the past due to various reasons but also due to poor and unsafe tuning. If you're running a flash-only tune on your N54 today, with or without the N20 3.5bar capable TMAP sensor, the hard limit is in place for the readable boost range of 2.5bar absolute (~21.5-22psi at sea level) inside which the DME's boost safety mechanism works. This is also the range in which PID based boost control has authority to adjust your boost. If your tune is pushing past 22psi rest assured that even though some tuners love throwing the word PID in their descriptions that PID simply doesn't exist and is virtually eliminated. Why? As mentioned before, PID based boost control revolves around knowing the actual boost. If you're seeing boost flatline in your logs at ~21psi it is at that point that PID based boost control and safety has basically gone out the window for your car/DME and all you're left with basically is the wastegate duty cycle which is mapped based on what is now a really skewed MAF calculation. Can you make power in this way? You sure can, but so could the old versions of popular piggybacks before CANBus days. There will always be multiple ways of making power on any given motor. We've also shown that pushing past the TMAP sensor limit is quite doable setting a former N54 HP/TQ record on a beta Stage 3 VTT twin setup. However, the difference at least with us is that we explicitly stated that such tuning is not recommended and WILL NOT be provided for any customer car given boost control safety mechanisms aren't in place. We are not ones to hand responsibility of appropriate tuning and throw risk into customer hands or make them stare at a boost gauge in hopes that they'll react in time to save their motor from uncontrollable boost spikes. It is also why we recommend going with an external form of boost control when tuning any car past its OEM TMAP sensor as there simply isn't any other proper way of doing it and certainly no way of using PID based boost control. Dyno glory numbers and tinkering are always fun and certainly help marketing buzz but its one thing to make power and another to do it with appropriate safety and control in mind. Bottom line is, if you see anyone claiming PID based boost control while going past the TMAP limit you can refer them to this thread and let them know they're missing a key piece of information to claim effective PID based control. You can also ask them what happens if your wastegate actuator sticks (not uncommon especially with wear on the turbos) or a boost control solenoid fails in the open position or when the car is already tuned to the edge at altitude and you drive down to sea level with the same map and heavily overboost. Not pretty, potentially very costly, irresponsible and just plain unnecessary given how far the N54 has come.
    67 replies | 1374 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    01-22-2015, 11:56 PM
    Put the car on the dyno tonight, for a few runs with the new intakes on. The results were pretty much as expected, we can most likely get more power out of the car, but 640WHP on stage 2's (or RB's), very very doubtful. These results were had with no tuner on hand, Dzenno is Skiing, and made me 2 maps one with low timing and one with the high timing (the same timing we ran last time on the dyno), well due to a miscommunication on my part they were left for IJEOS(shop car), instead of I8AOS for the car these are on. So they were unusable meaning we had one back end flash, with timing set to 10-13.5 up top, which is 2 degrees less then we ran on the previous dyno session records. We also were having a very hard time getting boost smooth in the JB, Terry, and I worked at it for about 20-40 logs, and got it to this level of smoothness, for some reason the PID had to be dropped way down as very small PWM changes were making big swings in boost, even with PID this low boost would still do weird things. It would spool then quickly drop boost, then build it again, which is that little depression in TQ you see from 3500-4250 or so, after that boost would smooth out, and track pretty well to redline. On the previous dyno the Stage 2 record was achieved on 29psi peak to 17.5 psi at redline as that is all we could make. These numbers were achieved with 27 psi peak to 22 psi at redline. We couldn't go any higher as we were getting a LOT of corrections, and LPFP was going nuts, but we can easily hold 25+ psi to redline if we can get the other issues figured out, but BP and shaft speed with those little compressors is going to be up there, and not healthy. If we matched the previous boost in the midrange, and fixed the boost drop off then rebuild issue, the curves down low would basically be identical. As far as LPFP something is really going on there, I will investigate tomorrow, as its pretty scary. With this against us, we still managed to make 576WHP/615WTQ with all these issues, once Dzenno gets back, and we can have a tuner on hand as we dyno, as well as get the LPFP, and boost figured out, the graph will smooth way out, and we have no doubt should achieve 600WHP with a few more psi, and less timing corrections. Either way, the intakes do exactly advertised, offer you much more flow to redline, and a much more flat power curve where it counts in the high end of the rev band. I threw a graph in there against 2+ as well, there really is no comparison, 2+ leaves the 15T's in the dust on about the same boost midrange and 2 psi more up top. All, and all we are happy, and these delivered as expected, once we get tuning sorted, we should have nice clean graph, and right around 600/600. Not bad for a set of Stage 2's...:naughty: Break down: VTT Stage 2's Billet 15T's VTT Silicone intakes VTT Silicone Charge pipe VTT Double Barrel HPFP upgrade Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP with 450 inline Cobb AP with PTF custom back end flash JB4 100% E85 All runs done in 4th gear Stage 2 Silicone Vs Stage 2 Stock intake Stage 2 Silicone Vs Stage 2+ Data Zap Log http://www.datazap.me/u/vargasturbotech/stage-2-silicone-intake-dyno-run-476?log=0&data=1-3-4-8-10-11-17-25-26-27-28-29 Jb Log
    43 replies | 1192 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    01-23-2015, 08:14 PM
    We are proud to announce the pricing for our much anticipated Silicone intake pipes, and Charge pipe for the N54! Prices will be as follows. Silicone intake pipes: MSRP $499 (When purchased with turbo upgrade $459) Silicone Charge pipe with billet bungs: MSRP $349 (When purchased with turbo upgrade $299) Silicone intakes and Charge pipe combo: MSRP $759 (When purchased with turbo upgrade $699) If you want a new DCI filter kit with your intakes add $79. This is two 2.25" filters, and 2 coupler pipes. (Please note we will not be selling filter kits except with purchase of an intake set) Existing VTT Stage 2 - 2+ customers 20% off intakes, 10% off charge pipes, 15% off combo We are not taking pre-orders for these items. We should have Intakes in stock in about 3 weeks, charge pipes in about 6. When they are here, and ready to ship, they will go live on the site. We are making 20 sets for the first run, 10 sets will be held back for current Stage 2 - 2+ customers. If 10 do not come forward to purchase we will put those that remain out for general sale. If we find that demand is greater for the initial batch we will increase the order, this first run is to gauge interest. The intake kit will come with all clamps, and fittings required for installation, and PCV routing. Charge pipe kit will come pre-assembled, you will reuse your stock V-band clamps, and it also comes with one 2.5" T-bolt clamp for the intercooler coupling. Keep in mind other companies are selling intakes and filter combo for $800, these other kits also require you to rearrange your engine compartment, and will not work without their new filters. There is also no other option currently on or coming to market for a replacement hot side charge pipe that will work with ALL stock frame turbochargers. With the VTT kit, if you already spent your hard earned money on a DCI, or upgraded intake box, or system, our kit will work perfectly with that system in place. No need to throw it away, or pull it off the car. Also for our enthusiasts in Europe with the very strict emissions laws, these pipes will fit right up to your stock air box, and be much harder to detect than any other intake system, on, or yet to be on the market. Please feel free to start a list of who is interested, and we can use that to help determine if we should increase the initial order! As always thanks for the support! Please Note: The intakes fit ALL models N54 including RHD, BUT there are a very few models that use plastic retainers on the intakes, and turbo replacement is required to fit new intakes. Charge pipe will only fit 335iLHD for now, we are making one to fit all other models including 135,535,Z4,RHD, etc. We appreciate your patience as we get those done!
    27 replies | 1037 view(s)
  • Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
    Yesterday, 03:47 PM
    Here is a reference of the latest development of Standard RB Turbos combined with TFT inlets, allowing unrestricted RB Turbo Performance on our customer car documented here: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthread.php?62716-BQ-WEDGE-335xi-w-RB-Turbos-607-AWHP-618-AWTQ-w-TFT-inlets-w-Sub-50-WGDC Datapoints- RB Car (Blue lines) E92 XI/AWD Automatic Transmission in 4th gear. Independent results. RB Standard Turbos with TFT inlets, Billet 15T Compressor, MHI 12 blade clipped turbine, stock charge pipe Boost- Unknown (slightly below 50% WGDC) Fueling/Tuning- OEM HPFP with inline LPFP. E60. Fueling insufficient at this time and to be addressed at a later date. Wedge/BQ Tuning. VTT Car (Red lines) E90 RWD Manual Transmission in 4th gear. Shop results. VTT 2+ Turbos with no inlets, Billet 20T Compressor, Proprietary 9 blade Garrett turbine with a 15* clip, stock charge pipe Boost- ~29-25psi (slightly below 70% WGDC) Fueling- VTT Double Barrel with SteveAZ LPFP solution. 100% E85. Fueling sufficient to max out turbos. PTF Tuning. As you can see the RB car having a very evident disadvantage with drivetrain losses, manages to absolutely destroy the VTT 2+ car at low RPM's and even hang right with them on the top end. The RB car seems to have much nicer results overall considering the drivetrain losses (not even considering the 20% extra WGDC potential in the RB's yet unleashed!!!). Without going too much into the hardware decisions made in each setup, it is fair to say that one is demonstrating a MUCH better curve and response than the other… while maintaining a similar top end at less effort. So sharing this comparison graph seemed appropriate. Thanks, Rob PS. Sorry if the overlay is not of the best quality. We had to have it quickly photoshopped. PSS. Some may take note of the VTT graph NOT being the advertised 645rwhp record. We will gladly redo the overlay if anyone can prove that the 645rwhp RECORD has a verifiable MPH dyno to prove it was in 4th gear (and not 5th); as we could not source that evidence NOR was VTT supportive in providing it.
    25 replies | 437 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    01-21-2015, 08:48 PM
    Hey guys, Had a chance to get our development M3 strapped down for some preliminary tuning with the PURE turbos. The purpose of the testing was to evaluate the boost control, fueling, and timing, and not necessarily to extract the most power out of the setup. The test car is a 2015 DCT running a JB4, PURE Turbos, ER pipes, BMS meth kit, and K&N drop in filters. The fuel was a mix of 25% E85, 25% 91, and 50% 100. Meth was a 70% mix. There is a lot more than I want to get in to with this post so I'll just throw up a few random notes along with a bit of data. 1) All runs were done using the JB4 progressive meth control which keeps boost at stock like levels UNTIL methanol is flowing. This prevents dangerous tip-in knock and lean conditions that can come along with non-integrated meth kits. And if you ever run out of methanol or got forbid a line comes loose, you don't lose the engine. 2) These PURE turbos spool much better than I expected they would. It's really not that much worse than stock and very similar to RB turbos on an N54 for those of you coming from that platform. 3) Fueling is a major headache. The JB4 is able to alter the air/fuel ratio & fuel trims (within limits) as you can see in the attached dyno charts showing power at various air/fuel ratios. I've found the engine runs much smoother at leaner than I'd expect air/fuel ratios. Like high 12s at higher RPM. If you get it in the 11s it has a nasty misfire/stutter tendency. There is a lot more work to be done on the fueling end and we may also need to tighten up the spark plug gap for these power levels. 4) I've recently started testing a new method for JB4 direct timing adjustment intended for large turbos. It increases the adjustment window an extra 4 degrees or so. I'm thinking it will come in handy for pump gas large turbo tuning. On the current fuel mix & meth at around 29psi I found MBT to be higher than I expected. In the 11-12 degree range at higher RPM. 5) I let off most runs at around 6500-6800rpm but I can verify the turbos hold full boost to redline without issue. I'll wind it out more on the dyno next time around. Up next I'll need to grab some 60-130 times for comparison to the stock turbos! Hoping for 6s! The best our 650whp M5 ever did on a 2% slope was 7.1s.
    23 replies | 399 view(s)
  • Group.america's Avatar
    01-26-2015, 04:07 PM
    Juno started this morning and I already have 2" of snow on my way to maybe 36" in the next 24 hours. Thought I would clear off the drive... within 2 minutes the 45 mph winds blew the snow right back into my driveway.. anyway I am bored so will post some pics as we go along Audi A3 Quattro FTW
    24 replies | 438 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    01-24-2015, 08:30 AM
    This is not surprising as BimmerBoost last year reported that all wheel drive coming to the M5 is an inevitability. What is surprising is just how quickly things are moving in that direction as BMW is already testing an xDrive all wheel drive equipped F10 M5. This all wheel drive M5 was spotted in Sweden which during the winter as you can see is a pretty good place to test traction. Apparently the front wheels did a slight burnout prompting a photographer to go underneath and see the front driveshaft confirming all wheel drive. All wheel drive is coming because these cars have become so heavy and utilize so much low end torque. The M5 is more about muscle than ever in its history and really is becoming a dragster. Well, the traditional rear wheel drive layout is making traction a problem and considering most owners just want to go fast in a straight line instead of hustle around the track (the old AMG recipe) traction off the line is the point of emphasis. Especially considering that the next generation M5 will likely get a tweaked F10 M5 S63TU 4.4 liter twin turbo V8 with horsepower bumped to the ~630 range. It is unlikely that BMW will release an all wheel drive F10 M5 (although they clearly could) and more likely that this is a test mule for the next generation M5 powertrain which will be very similar to the F10 M5 powertrain. Expect more weight on the nose, more understeer, and for traditional BMW handling characteristics and balance to take a back seat toward straightline performance. It was nice knowing you M.
    27 replies | 78 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    01-23-2015, 05:30 PM
    As everyone knows, our new silicone intakes, are in production a few short weeks away, and have already shown great gains. We also made a charge pipe at the same time (which was also test fit with the silicone intakes), to get rid of that terrible stock pipe, with a smashed joining of the 2 banks among other problems it had. For our solution, we wanted to make it as easy to bolt on to any existing stock frame set up, from stock to 2+, while retaining the positive next to impossible to blow off connection of the stock Vbands. What we came up with combines the best of both worlds, and does just that...:music-rockout: We had billet v-band bungs CNC'd that are almost a full 1.5" ID that fit our charge pipe perfectly. These bungs now move the positive O-ring style seal to the OD of the compressor housing outlet instead of the inlet, this allowed us to make it full flowing like the charge pipe, BUT keep the V-band clamps for guaranteed trouble/boost leak free operation. To ensure this the bung extends a full 1.25" into the charge pipe, and has a machined hose bead, coupled with Stainless steel clamp (not shown), and the factory V-bands that will keep the CP in place, and leak free, no matter how much boost you throw at it. Below are a few pictures of how the system will work, and attach to the compressor. We are very happy with it, and coupled with our Silicone intakes will make a potent 3 punch combination for any stock frame turbo car looking to maximize its power! These will be of course offered separately from the intakes, but there will also be a package price for all 3 pieces. We are also seriously considering doing a cold side up pipe, and Charge pipe as well. That way you can run high quality, non heat conducting silicone all the way from the turbo outlets to the TB. If this is something you would be interested in let us know...:) As always thanks for the support!
    18 replies | 570 view(s)
  • Sales@Gintani.com's Avatar
    01-21-2015, 08:46 PM
    Gintani is proud to introduce our full F8X M3/M4 ECU tune. With full access to the DME (Engine ECU) and great understanding of it our team has achieved great power and unlocked features such as cold start delete and cat delete. The ability to read/write from the ECU and our vast background in Forced Induction motors has allowed us to fine tune the car to great levels. Allowing the monster to come out when needed while having the comforts of a daily driven car. Our stage 1 tune on a bone stock car produced over 60WHP & 70WTQ on our DynoDynamics Dyno with 91 octane and only a small PSI increase. Much less pressure on the turbo's then a piggyback tune. With better octane fuel and downpipes 100+WHP will soon come. Our tune is a full ECU flash with no piggyback unit/Plug in box. For the past couple years piggyback tunes have grown. Piggyback tunes trick the vehicles turbo's to boost higher by playing with the voltage signals coming from the DME. With no control air/fuel ratios the power spikes up and down the powerband. Careful review of our dyno will show higher numbers while keeping the powerband stock like. Curves up and down the dyno flow almost identical to the factory powerband, achieving great smooth power. After months of dyno after dyno, and track after track our full F8X M3/M4 Tune is ready to go: 91,93,100 Octane applications Fuel Air/Fuel Ratio Adjustments Race Fuel Applications Top Speed Limit Removal Increase RPM limiter Exhaust Valves Fully Open Full Cat Delete Cold Start Delete Fuel Overrun (Catless cars only,dumps fuel for flame/burble effect from exhaust) At this moment in time the ECU must be removed and shipped to us for tuning, or you can come visit us at our Southern California facility. Price: $1299
    17 replies | 219 view(s)
  • Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
    01-26-2015, 04:04 PM
    All, We posted this on the other forums a while back and thought it would be of help over here as well to further understanding on turbochargers and reliability. "It has came to our attention that there is some confusion in the arts of turbocharger balancing methods so we felt we'd take a moment to share our viewpoint on VSR balancing. We will not be discussing intricate details in the arts of proper VSR CHRA balancing, but wanted to give more of a high level overview of what it entails. Being concerned about providing customers the best possible quality in each and every turbocharger we took delivery of a new VSR balancing machine last summer and have been very pleased with this machine to say the least. We all know that performance is great but what makes it even better is reliability. The bottom line is that consumers need turbochargers they can count on, one that has been bench tested to perform, and it needs to be done prior to shipping. This could save countless amounts of headaches and costs down the road. For those who may not know VSR stands for Vibration Sorting Rig. This is an expensive and delicate piece of equipment that gives visibility of a CHRA's performance under conditions they are subjected to when bolted to an engine. During bench testing the final assembled CHRA is bolted to a fixture and is injected with pressurized/heated oil and then a large supply of air is applied to propel the rotor through the entire operating RPM range that the unit will be subjected to in application (ie. 0-170k RPM). The entire RPM range is plotted on a graph along with a vibration intensity measurement at each point during acceleration of the rotor (measured in G's), and calculations are performed to help the operator determine where the rotor components can be lightened by very minute grinding techniques to lessen the mechanical vibration. This essentially is a way to determine whether a turbocharger is assembled correctly and allows the VSR operator to have ultimate control over the balance of the turbo cartridge assembly. As one can imagine, "vibrations" in mechanical components suggest that the device is imperfect and subject to larger wear in shorter amounts of time. Large amounts of vibrations mean poor performance, slow spool, oil consumption, audible noise, and at times a quick failure. A smooth operating unit that does not vibrate means exceptional lifespan, quick spool, low oil consumption, and superb performance. It is also worth mentioning that no amount of "robust" hardware can compensate for a poorly balanced center section. VSR's also indicate how well each CHRA is balanced by comparing the performance to a predefined OEM threshold. OEM thresholds are typically very high which can be acceptable for non high performance, but can lead to short turbocharger life if or when they are pushed harder than what they were intended. Also keep in mind that even IF a cartridge was dynamically VSR'd, it doesn't mean that it was done proficiently. Ideally each CHRA will be at balanced to what we refer to as "the balance floor", "flatlined", or at least very close to it. The report shows the performance and illustrates to what caliber the CHRA was precisely balanced. They can not always be absolute perfection and it should not be expected, unfortunately, but turbocharger manufacturers should be diligent in achieving as close to perfection in each unit as possible. Beware of manufacturers who do not have the cutting edge technology employed, as ultimately the product could suffer in reliability especially when pushed to the products outer limits. Some manufacturers maintain that they utilize the technology but they do not. Some others can VSR but NOT dynamically, and usually at too low of a speed to get the product quality high enough to survive. CHRA VSR Dynamic Balancing performance and analysis reports should ALWAYS be provided to confirm. As always many things can cause a turbocharger to fail, sometimes outside of their control… but this is an absolute safe way to ensure the product is built to exceptional standards. Below is a sample of a VSR report for visual reference. Thanks, Rob PS- Would like to take a moment also to give a big thank you to Jesse @ Pure Turbo for helping us along and furthering the understanding in the art of VSR balancing!"
    15 replies | 443 view(s)
  • Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
    Yesterday, 02:16 PM
    Rob@RBTurbo started a thread RB Turbo PCV Valve in N54
    All, Firstly we are happy to be onboard BimmerBoost. It has been quite a while and for the new year we made numerous "resolutions" and one of them was to finally join this forum. In direct relation to that another resolution was to give us our voice into constant nonsense, product attacks, and deception we have seen in only one of our competitors. Being that we deal in hardware it is a great thing to address these items because as they say a picture is worth a thousand words, and we have nothing to hide. We'd agree that this thread such as this SHOULD not necessary, but it is when you realize the type of person on the other side and the amount of efforts it cost in dealing with the misinformation in the hands of hundreds to thousands of "faithful" enthusiasts. And with that it has to stop, and we will continue to squash it wherever we see it. This concept was in fact one of our other resolutions for the new year. So without further ado, here are the quotes that were made by said competitor and pictures of their product exposed. Keep in mind this is the same valve and part number for part number of that we have been using since 2012. The direct copy of the part combined with an of all things "up charge", is lesser importance to us than that of what lies behind the principal of these below quoted statements. For those who may question us as using this valve, we openly invite any random customer out there to dissect your RB PCV valve to confirm and we will send you another free one (limited). We will do this as we have again nothing to hide, and it is worth it to prove any point on the matter. We will further add that there maybe more of this to go around. Consider it an advanced warning. We have had it over the years and it is time to clean up the streets. Thanks, Rob
    15 replies | 314 view(s)
  • DavidV's Avatar
    01-21-2015, 04:10 AM
    1/4 mile drag race video of a rare light-weight Lamborghini Gallardo STS (Super Trofeo Stradale) versus a 2015 BMW M4. The Lamborghini Gallardo STS is powered by a naturally aspirated 5.2 Liter V10 which makes 570 horsepower. The BMW M4 is powered by a 3.0 liter twin turbo 6 cylinder that makes 425 horsepower when stock; however, the M4 is tuned and makes substantially more power than stock. Watch and enjoy the race.
    12 replies | 141 view(s)
  • Cortez08's Avatar
    01-24-2015, 01:48 PM
    What is the best upgraded turbo and fuel option for FBO on 93 octane? I do not want to run meth and the car is a daily driver. I see lots of dynos and claims for ethanol whp records but the nearest E85 station is 45 mins away from me. I do have quick access to 100+ octane though. Am i really going to gain much by going to stage 2 over stage 1 twins on 93?
    10 replies | 250 view(s)
  • Sabre's Avatar
    01-23-2015, 08:47 PM
    As the tittle states, I am trying to flash my car back to stock using the bimmerboost app and I want to know if it matters what IJEOS file I use. From the download section i see that there are: - IJEOS_09_bmw_e90_n54_10of2008_PM73_6AT_sport_premium - IJE0S Stage 0 My car is a 6MT, so i dont know if the AT files make a differene or not? Backgorund Someone stole my cobb app while still being married to my car. My clutch started slipping, so I used a local friends Cobb Ap to flash to stock. I ran into issues at first, but eventually the flash worked and i retuned back to stock power, only without cruise control functionality. I want to flash over a stock file in the hopes that it will restore my cruise control. Cobb advised that i should have a back up on my computer, wich i belive are the folowing files: BMW_MSD81_0044CC0IJE0S_1964_enc.rom BMW_MSD81_0044CC0IJE0S_1964_enc.rom_sum BMW_BASE.xml BMW_MSD81_0044CC0IJE0S.xml BMW_MSD81_0044CC0IJE0S.dat BMW_MSD81_0044CC0IJE0S.dat3 From what i read it seems the (.rom) file is what i need, but i have no idea on how to convert it over to a (.bin) file. Any help or suggestion is appreciated!! Thank you!
    10 replies | 199 view(s)
  • DD GT3 RD's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:32 AM
    Not sure if this was ever posted, if a repost please delete. Pretty fast! LaFerrari: 0-60 2.7 1/4 9.6 @ 157 mph P1: 0-60 2.6 1/4 9.8 148.9 mph http://www.automobilemag.com/features/magazine/1503-hybrid-is-the-new-fast-ferrari-laferrari-vs-mclaren-p1/
    10 replies | 141 view(s)
  • tjobeid's Avatar
    01-26-2015, 03:58 PM
    I am looking for OEM wheels and tires and a full OEM suspension to get my 335i running again. So far nothing local has been located except wheels and tires and suspension off a 2008 135i. I have a 07 335i RWD. Will these fit fine?
    13 replies | 111 view(s)
  • 925_335IS's Avatar
    01-21-2015, 01:49 PM
    2013 BMW 335IS Alpine White, Oyster/Black interior, 7spd DCT, 29,700 miles. Mods- JB4 G5iso BMS Flash CP-e charge pipe with Tial blow off valve CP-e Intercooler BMS dual cone intakes BMS down pipes BMS oil catch can BMS oil bypass RB PCV valve/cap BC Racing coilovers I also have all the stock parts to return car completely back to stock. All service done at BMW, oil changed every 7k miles. Car comes with 6 year 100k extended warranty. $43,500obo Robert 925-949-6628 text or call. If i dont answer leave a message, I work nights
    11 replies | 216 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 05:22 PM
    Say hello to a new vendor and a new tuner on the scene, Miami Tuning Group. Many of you have seen a lot of S63TU tunes have hit the market in short order as F-Series ECU's have been cracked. What will separate these tunes is namely pricing and features. What is nice to see here are timeslips accompanying the dyno chart. How about cracking 130 in the 1/4 mile with just a tune? This is a Florida result so keep in mind the fuel is 93 octane pump. The M6 turns into quite the beast with just a tune so imagine the possibilities with a race gas tune and bolt ons. Regarding the output figures the S63TU goes to 588 wheel horsepower from the stock 524 wheel horsepower. The peak torque figures rises by just under 100 lb-ft of torque at the wheels getting very close to breaking 600 lb-ft at the wheels. You should also notice the torque gains are through the entire curve. Expect to see more MTG over the next few weeks.
    11 replies | 46 view(s)
  • trading10's Avatar
    Yesterday, 07:33 AM
    Just got a 2007 335i coupe 6MT with new turbos, wastegates, injectors, and recently cleaned out with walnut shell blast. Soon after getting it, I picked up the Procede open flash tablet and flashed it with their stage 0 map. My 99 e36 M3 has about 260hp as it is configured, and has instantaneous throttle response that is very torquey, and it accelerates really quickly. This 335i, with a ton more hp (Procede says 380hp/400lbs with stage 0 if I understood them correctly), should beat the pants off the m3, but it's throttle response feels completely different, like it's lacking torque big time, but flies as boost comes on up to 16lbs-18lbs around 4k rpm or so I think. I'm really confused about why this 335i doesn't have the neck snapping throttle response of the M3. This is the first boosted motor I've ever owned, and don't know what my expectations should be compared to my M3 that I've had for the last 10 yrs (and still love!). Could you share your thoughts about this, or enlighten me a little? Thank you
    5 replies | 100 view(s)
  • tjav8b's Avatar
    01-25-2015, 12:25 AM
    I am attempting to do some research on how inlet air temperatures are being effected by my ESS VT-650 kit and how efficient the intercooler design is. I am running the BMW Data logger program while conducting a few maximum rpm pulls on the highway. This was in no way a controlled test as I am just starting this and wanted to get a basic idea of what is going on under the hood. I am also having trouble with the BMW data logger continuously dropping offline. Ambient temperature was 60 degrees. While driving at 70mph and engine completely warmed up IATs began at 83-85 degrees. After only two 3rd to the top of 4th gear pulls IATs yielded a 148 degree peak. It took about 5 minutes for IATs to come down to 90 degrees where it stabilized. After the IATs stabilized I pulled over and checked under the hood temperatures. Using an infrared thermometer the large air filter measured 100 degrees. The small air filter measured 130 degrees. I am looking into putting a temperature sensor at the filter to get a more accurate reading of how hot the air is that is actually being sucked in. Even though this was a very rough test, the results do not look good to me. IATs stabilizing 30 degrees above ambient at highway speeds does not seem efficient. Also, seeing 90 degrees above ambient after a few hard pulls on only 7psi does not seem good either. Supercharger outlet temperature = ambient + (10 * psi) right? I welcome any comments. Any boost experts out there?
    6 replies | 156 view(s)
  • SilverN54's Avatar
    01-26-2015, 06:23 PM
    SilverN54 started a thread Need a good e35 flash. in N54
    I'm running the bms e85flash (50% e85) now but from my logs, my fuel pumps just can't keep up. I'm still a few weeks away from having time to install my lpfp. Does anyone have a 35% e85 flash they're using that looks good? I'd be interested to try it. TIA
    6 replies | 124 view(s)
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