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  • ope92's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:53 AM
    Just got my stockers replaced under warranty, no questions asked. Mods stayed on the car, car didn't throw any codes just rattled a shit ton.
    14 replies | 257 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 02:38 PM
    That is the current rumor although it is based somewhat in reality. The new G11 7-Series is rumored to get this new 3.0 liter inline-6 diesel with four turbochargers. This would be utilized in a M750d model that would have xDrive all wheel drive and would not launch until well into 2016. That is of course providing the information is accurate. BMW does produce a tri-turbo 3.0 liter inline-6 in the 550d / 50d models. The triple turbocharged motor produces 381 horsepower and 546 lb-ft of torque. BMW is expected to take things beyond 400 horsepower and 600 lb-ft of torque with this new quad turbocharged motor. It is unknown if this motor will use conventional turbochargers or if there will be some sort compressor spun with electricity to supplement the exhaust driven turbos. It is too early to tell at this time but even if BMW does produce this the chances of it coming to the USA are slim to none. Source
    15 replies | 42 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:03 PM
    Hey guys, We've started tuning the E92 with modified twins and came across an interesting issue. A fairly large and unexplained fuel trim bank to bank variance. Note bank1 is shown under trims and bank2 trims are shown under average advance. They will get a full time home soon. After pulling our hair out for a day or two we decided it might be a partially clogged fuel injector on the port injection rail allowing one bank to be thrown off. Tore it apart to swap them and found the issue... Torn gaskets on the back 2 cylinders. Basically a boost leak on two of the cylinders. We've had the rail on and off several times and this must have happened without us knowing at some point. With new gaskets in bank to bank trims went right back to normal. Right now the JB4 does not have a bank to bank safety built in but we're going to add one shortly. If banks deviate by more than 10% at full throttle we'll have it trigger a map 4 safety switch. Still a handful of issues to resolve with the car including a mystery misfire. At least it's on the right track now.
    14 replies | 139 view(s)
  • jyamona's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:10 AM
    jyamona started a thread Raised Idle = 2ADF Code in N54
    Hey guys, I have been running the 960rpm idle across all tables for awhile now, and stumbled across a code (didn't throw a CEL), when checking some OBD readiness stuff. The code is 2ADF: idle running control, speed. It's not a big deal, and it can be disabled, but I'm curious if it is happening to anyone else now. Can those of you who raised your idle, check if you have this code? There are probably some single cell idle setpoints for various things that need to be defined as well to truly fix this, just debating if it is worth the effort vs. disabling the code. Thanks!
    7 replies | 111 view(s)
  • Ksmyth's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:43 AM
    Hi all, Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching like crazy to try solve this issue. Every time I start the latest (v1.2) software it stops working. I've tried FIVE different computers. I even went down to the store today and bought the cheapest, slowest ASUS computer they had. It is an intel atom, not an AMD, but it seems that works for most. Windows 8 unfortunately. The bb_flash log shows this... 5.4219 FTD2XX_NET.FTDI Attempting to load FTD2XX.DLL from: C:\Users\Kevin\AppData\Local\Apps\2.0\NTWLKBPA.2QZ \BHPHM8ND.G4J\bimm..tion_6163feca8559b1f9_0001.000 0_59ea2ce698cae162 5.4436 FTD2XX_NET.FTDI Failed to load FTD2XX.DLL. Are the FTDI drivers installed? 5.4658 VehicleConnector.MicroCanAPI FTDI driver not accessable 5.4682 VehicleConnector.MicroCanAPI No FTDI devices plugged in Clearly a driver issue. - BavTech software works great. - I followed the instructions on the first page for all five computers. - I even went to the FTDI chip manufactures website and downloaded the latest drivers there. - Tried copying the DLL to the c:\windows\system32 directory. No luck. - JB4 is in map 0 - Order was plug into car, plug into computer, key in, push start without starting (all the lights are on), launch BB Could it be the cable? doubtful give the BT sw works. Could it be my DME? Or am I just screwed until I find just the right "old computer"? Help, please!
    7 replies | 75 view(s)
  • berns's Avatar
    Yesterday, 07:01 PM
    Hi everyone, wanted to see if we could get some constructive conversation going about the rev limiter on our car... I'm not sure about all of you, but I HATE soft rev limiters on any performance application. Whether you drag race, autocross, drift or even just want to do some donuts once in a while, a soft limiter that gently hits redline and then closes the throttle plate can be a huge annoyance. You lose your boost pressure and the car bogs down -- in a turn, drift or gunning it to the next cone, or away from it, this can unsettle the car, slow you down and cost you time, not to mention, it sounds terrible. I've looked around a bit to see what options we have. A friend of mine had a 135i with the now totally obsolete Procede, and he was able to set a hard limiter on his car, which tells me this can in-fact be done with tuning. Again, not trying to start a conversation about moving to Procede or anything stupid like that, this is merely an example to show it's possible and it's been done. A thread, with logs, can be seen here on this topic: There is the BMS add-on to JB4 G5 ISO (manual only) N54 cars to activate 2-step and NLS, and that's all great, however, it's only activated when the clutch is disengaged and you're at WOT. What I'm after, though, is a hard limiter in-gear and on throttle -- more brap, brap, brap than vroom-meh-vroom. I just flashed my car with the BimmerBoost/BMS backend flash, and I believe the soft limiter could be changed and manipulated in the backend, through TunerPro or the like? Thoughts? Meanwhile, here's a boring video where you clearly hear the soft limiter at the top of 1st gear in my car, along with a great example of a hard limiter that came on my buddies e36... drool Cheers, Alex
    3 replies | 64 view(s)
  • Mibugu's Avatar
    Yesterday, 01:11 PM
    Mibugu started a thread For Sale: FS: Cobb AP V3 for N54 in Buy/Sell - Parts
    Hello Bimmerboost, Up for sale is a slightly used Cobb AP V3 for the N54 engine. Included is the accessport unit, OBD cable, carrying case, and additional (blue) faceplate. Sorry, no mounting accessories. Unmarried upon shipping. Price is 550 shipped OBO. Thanks!
    3 replies | 44 view(s)
  • BmwLuke's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:51 PM
    Hello guys, I recently installed a jb4 on my 2007 bmw 335i. I took it for a test drive and after about of mile of successfully driving the newly tuned car, I suddenly lost engine power and the car went into limp mode. I first thought it was the valve cover gasket, I went ahead and also changed my spark plugs with the valve cover gasket replacement. After these, the car still did not run right. I had a friend with a code reader, and I had a couple of misfires (3 i think), as well as a DME Internal Failure code, along with something about misfiring with low fuel level. I removed the jb4 and the codes and issues still remained. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong? Here is my code readings from jb4: And heres what it sounds like when you idle/rev it:
    2 replies | 34 view(s)
  • lamboworld's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:59 PM
    I am getting ready to switch from stock turbos to Pure N54 turbos and I am really unsure about what I should do with my tune. I have been very happy with Cobb and custom tunes from Wedge. However, I continue to read on this form and others that I will need more boost control with hybrids, which JB4 is supposed to do better than flash alone. I have a Z4 DCT so I need tuning that won't allow my clutch to slip. I have never tuned this car myself and I don't plan on starting. I want to get my new turbo and inlet setup in a manner that requires very little ongoing adjustments with my tune. I will either use E50 or 93. So, give me some advantages of JB4 with Backend Flash or Flash alone.
    0 replies | 27 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:09 AM
    Hey ivarev: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 18 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 07:39 AM
    Hey Gonz: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 17 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 06:35 AM
    Welcome to a real enthusiast forum CDCI.
    0 replies | 17 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:08 PM
    We have seen a drag race between these two cars before with the Aventador coming out on top. The Aventador should come out on top although the two cars are closely matched. The Aventador is more powerful thanks to its larger 6.5 liter V12 but it is also heavier. It also has an ISR (Independent Shift Rod) transmission instead of a DCT (dual clutch) transmission. It looks like the Huracan's shift speed pays dividends in this race. The difference between the two is almost 100 horsepower and 100 lb-ft of torque. This certainly means the previous result we saw makes sense as it is close but the Aventador edges up top. In this race the Aventador has the lower trap speed which leaves us scratching our heads. Both cars are said to have an exhaust but is there more going on here? Another standing kilometer run between these two shows the Aventador as the faster of the two with the higher trap speeds although it does have an aftermarket exhaust. Keep in mind we have seen these cars on the highway as well with the Aventador showing its power advantage. This is the only result we have seen thus far with a Huracan coming out on top and trapping higher than its big brother. They are close, no doubt, but we think modifications play a role in the outcome here based on precedent.
    0 replies | 16 view(s)
  • RW Carbon's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:12 PM
    For anyone who has carbon fiber on their car or wants to add some but are unsure of the proper upkeep, please check this article out. It is extremely helpful to keep your carbon fiber parts and/or accessories looking like new. Preventative Maintenance With all the new super and hyper cars being released with loads of carbon fiber, the demand for that look on our daily drivers is increasing. Luckily, carbon fiber does not require as much care as the exotic cars they come on. All of RW Carbon’s carbon fiber parts and accessories are finished off with a clear coat which gives them a protective layer and a beautiful glossy shine (most carbon fiber products come with a clear coat, but there are different levels of clear coat quality. The better the quality the longer the product can last). The clear coat used on our carbon fiber products is softer than that used on the paint of your car. Due to this, your carbon fiber products will need more upkeep to keep them looking new. The more time and care you give to your CF products the longer they will last. When washing your car go ahead and wash your CF parts with automotive clear coat safe soap and water. For extra protection we highly suggest you wax your products either with a spray wax (if you are in a rush) or apply a nice coat of polish and/or carnauba wax (recommended). Due to the softer nature of the clear coat, a polish will get rid of any fine scratches and the carnauba wax will seal the clear coat. This will protect it from moisture permeation and harmful UV rays than can cause fading, cloudiness and yellowing. If you live in an area with extreme weather conditions, we recommend taking more time to maintain your CF parts. To ensure the best care for your carbon fiber item(s) RW Carbon also recommends that you polish and wax each part by hand. A machine or orbital in untrained hands can apply swirl marks into the clear coat. At RW Carbon we use a microfiber wax applicator pad and towel. For the wax itself we use Meguriars Scratch-X, Deep Crystal Polish and Carnauba wax, but any reputable name brand wax will work just fine. Corrective Measures If the damage is already done, there are steps you can take to get your carbon fiber parts looking like new again. If there are surface scratches, fading, cloudiness or yellowing occurring, then roll up those sleeves. You will want to use a high grit polish or rubbing compound in order to grind off the top layer of dirt and grime. Although it takes longer, we recommend doing these steps by hand with an applicator pad, to avoid rubbing too much of the clear coat off or making swirl marks. Once you have spent some time cleaning up the clear coat with the rubbing compound, use a clay bar kit to pull off additional impurities. After the clay bar kit, you can now start with the waxing process. First you will need a cleaner wax, then a light polish and finish it off with 1-3 coats of carnauba wax. Give each coat 5-15 minutes to dry before rubbing it off and 5-15 minutes in between each coat. For additional information and steps to care for your carbon fiber parts and accessories please visit our "Step by Step How to Care for my Carbon Fiber Guide." View the original article by Clicking Here If you have any further questions about carbon fiber maintenance and upkeep please feel free to PM me or email me at
    0 replies | 13 view(s)
  • RW Carbon's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:23 PM
    Too many potential carbon fiber buyers are confused when it comes down to which particular type of carbon fiber is used over another. Lets first break down the different categories of Carbon Fiber Woven Fabrics.. 1. 2×2 Twill Weave The 2×2 twill weave is by far the most common carbon fiber fabric used in the automotive industry. This fabric type follows a distinct diagonal pattern. When you think about a 2×2 carbon weave look at it as a pattern that goes over two intersecting warps and under two (hence why it is called 2×2). This makes the fabric more pliable and looser. That means it can be applied more easily because it can be stretched to curves and contours with fewer complications. However, this also means the applicator needs to handle the weave more carefully than a plain or 1×1 weave as it is simple to leave slight distortions in the weave. 2. Plain (1×1) Weave The plain or 1×1 weave is the second most used fabric type in the auto industry. As you would expect it is given its name (1×1) because it looks more like a checker board where the weave pattern goes up one and down one. Plain weave is then a tighter knit fabric and is easier to handle without making any distortions. On the down side the tighter weave makes it more difficult to drape the fabric over the mold; making this type a second favorite choice for most manufacturers. RW Carbon offers both carbon fiber weaves in certain items we sell. The majority of products only come in 2×2 twill weave but for our BMW M3 and M6 owners we offer 1×1 or 2×2 which give them the option to match their carbon fiber roof. Other or Less Common Weaves The majority of carbon fiber parts and accessories are made using these two types of weaves mentioned above. However, there are others out there such as: Satin weave, harness weave, fish weave and unidirectional. All of these are just different weave patterns for carbon fabric. In almost every automotive application 1×1 or 2×2 weave is superior in looks and construction which is why you rarely will hear these other weave types. Only custom or unusual carbon fiber requests will require weaves like these. Unidirectional weave is where almost every fiber is aligned in the same direction. This kind of weave is only held together by the occasional strand of either carbon or polyester running across the fibers at a 90 degree angle. This kind of carbon fiber is best used where all the force is aligned in one direction, such as in an archery bow and arrow. Unidirectional Carbon Weave So which weave pattern makes for the strongest fabric? Contrary to popular belief, the 1×1 or plain weave is actually weaker then the 2×2 or a 4 harness satin weave (4×4). This is because as the carbon fibers are put under strain or tension, the fibers want to pull straight but cannot due to the repeat of the pattern. Each fiber is forced over and under one another. Therefore, that tension will eventually shear apart the fabric, leaving a 2×2 with more tensile strength than a plain weave. Now that you have an understanding of carbon fiber weave types, next is to discuss the major types of carbon fiber cloths. In the auto industry there are 2 popular types of cloth, wet and dry prepreg. 1. Wet Prepreg Cloth Wet pregreg cloth is the most popular method for carbon fiber Front Lip Spoilers, Rear Diffusers and Trunks because it tends to be easier to manufacturer. All that is needed is a precisely measured amount of resin or epoxy that is then poured over the fabric, making the fabric “wet”. This type of carbon can either cure in room temperature or like most they need to be baked. 2. Dry Prepreg Cloth The dry prepreg cloth or otherwise known as “Dry Carbon” is very similar to wet prepreg as they both utilize resin or epoxy to adhere the fabric. However, unlike the wet version, the epoxy used for this cloth type has dry properties and is impregnated into the cloth. This step guarantees there is no excess epoxy, which gives it that “Dry” appearance (Most of our products are then given a clear coat to protect the weave). This method requires further steps to be taken; each layer needs to be “squeeged” and the amount of resin used must be very precise or the item will become too tacky. Once the aero parts are molded it requires baking for several hours at a temperature of 250 degrees Fahrenheit. This is why dry carbon parts and accessories tend to be more expensive when compared to wet carbon cloth. Why would I pay more for a Dry Carbon Aero Piece? The answer is quite simple. Dry carbon is able to create the same tensile strength as wet carbon fiber but it weighs substantially less. So for all your auto enthusiast looking to track your car and shed some weight, dry carbon is a must! If you have any further questions about carbon fiber weaves or fabric please email RW Carbon at CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE FULL ARTICLE
    0 replies | 12 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:59 AM
    Hey MuhammadWe: :text-welcomewave:
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    Yesterday, 10:13 AM
    Hey onfire: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 10 view(s)
  • berns's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:31 PM
    I bought a set of M4 wheels for my E90 335i and these tires, while wonderful and in like-new shape, would never fit behind my measly fenders. The tires were only on the car for its first 600 miles. The owner was young and had barely even broken his new M4 in... the tires attest to that. They are located in Huntington Beach, CA. I'd prefer not to ship them, so local pickup is best. Don't mind the brown-ness on them, they were just removed form the wheels and that liquid/lubricant stuff just needs to be washed off. Just to be clear, these are the original equipment on the F8x M3/M4. Sizes: 255/40ZR18 front and 275/40ZR18 rear Brand new from Tire Rack, these go for $1,035.86 So these are up for $750 OBO, which seems pretty fair... no sales tax, no shipping, no hassle! Thanks!
    0 replies | 8 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 04:54 PM
    Hey Acker: :text-welcomewave:
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  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:20 PM
    Welcome to a real enthusiast forum qynhgiao88.
    0 replies | 6 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 06:42 PM
    BmwLuke, we appreciate you taking the time to join.
    0 replies | 6 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:47 PM
    Hey leandroabreau: :text-welcomewave:
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  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 01:41 PM
    Welcome rhombus, take a look around, I think you will like what you see.
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