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  • BPCMotorsports's Avatar
    10-13-2017, 02:22 PM
    After months of hard work, delays, broken parts, hiccups and other shit, we finally hit our Mark! 1026 SAE RWHP!!!!!!!! Massive shout out to everyone envolved to help us along the way. Were not stopping here either, but finally, we have hit the seemingly unobtainable 4 digit mark! 2013 M5 DCT car SSP 1000hp clutches All done via Flash only, no Piggyback (JB4). 110 Octane, stock fuel system. Methanol injection (M1) NO Nitrous Videos uploading to youtube now, will show soon!
    33 replies | 268 view(s)
  • AWSAWS's Avatar
    10-17-2017, 11:25 AM
    AWSAWS started a thread GC update in N54
    I got to the drag strip last weekend. Unfortunately I couldn't get my car to hook for a good 60ft but I did trap at 129 at the quarter and 101 at the 8th in a full weight car. This was despite the traction control cutting in in 2nd gear, dropping timing to 0 and closing the throttle. So I should make 130 I hope. I run the car in DTC mode. I didn't think to let the tyre pressures down unfortunately. I ran a pump flash first time. Traction control cut in severely and I trapped only 124 so I decided to go to the ethanol flash and to limit boost at the start. Then I was adding more and more ethanol to my tank after each run. My trims had been going a bit high so I didn't want to add too much which I couldn't remove later. I hadn't done much testing with my E50 flash before getting to the track so it wasn't ideal. I hope to go to the drag strip again this coming weekend. I might just try mashing the throttle this time. I was blipping the throttle up to 3000 rpm and trying to launch from there last time. DCT box. When I used full launch control the car took ages to stop spinning in 1st and then cut the power in 2nd. Complete waste of time.
    23 replies | 499 view(s)
  • impuls's Avatar
    10-13-2017, 04:59 PM
    I found a quite old DAMOS/ASAP2/A2L file for something I think is a development version of the MSD80 bin. The addresses in the file not match what can be found in the bin for IA80S at all, but I assume the tables defined there are at least more or less the same that do exist in current bins and the tables have not been re-shuffled completely. Seems my assumption is not completely wrong as I was able to manually define three new (guess quite useless) VANOS related tables, see screenshot and translation of description from the ASAP2 below. Now that the approach principally seems to work I am thinking of partially automating this with a simple program that will: -Read the ASAP2 file. -Display table data in the bin with a user defined offset. -If data does make sense: Write table definition into an XDF. My question to the experts and everybody interested: Do you think it is worth to spend some time on defining more tables and correcting existing definitions? (I am pretty sure that several of them are defined incorrectly) Assuming there are new tables discovered that are useful, do we somehow need to take care of checksums? KF_KASOPT VANOS Exhaus (cold, partially throttled( KF_WASOPT: VANOS Exhaust (warm, partially throttled) KF_ALLW: VANOS Exhaust (Idle + Throttled)
    24 replies | 549 view(s)
  • cloud9blue's Avatar
    Yesterday, 03:25 AM
    Car is relative stock when it comes to engine mods, just the standard FBO setup with JB4 and MHD backend flash. Tried running full e85 for a while with fuel-it stage 2 lpfp and TPI, but partial throttle response was a bit of hit of miss on with that setup. It was kind of annoying for the road course events I like to do with this car, so I went back to pump gas again. I am seriously thinking of getting a decent ST kit to replace the aging stock twins and have been reading quite a bit on forums to catch on the recent ST development. My goal is to be around a conservative 500-550whp on pump gas with DI only and quick spool and good transient response. So probably a 6062 or even a 5862 turbo is enough for me. Anyway, I just want to use this thread to compare notes with the rest of you and gather information that might be helpful for other members down the line. - ST Kit At the moment, it seems like Doc Race and Motiv are probably the best complete kits available on the market. And I am still kind of deciding between the two. Not really considering the VM/ACF and ADE kits since they have long lead time and questionable availability. Not gonna bother with the low end offers like On3 and etc. Nothing wrong with saving some money, but I just don't have the energy to deal with potential issues of those kits. If I gonna do this, I would rather get it right the first time. Btw does FFTEC still make N54 kit? Motiv Pros: - Durable manifold design, whole kit seems very well put together and reliable; these kits have been around for a few years now without any hardware failure. I know quite a few track cars (road course) run Motiv kits. - Clean bottom mount design and less heat related issues down the road because of that - Well executed pre turbo O2 bungs, with long heat sink so your O2 will last longer - Short runner length, faster spool (for mid size turbos) and better transient response? I know these are somewhat debatable depending on the actual execution. - Recirculated wastegate dumps is an option, less noise and less smell during stop and go traffic? Cons: - Log style manifold is more restrictive? Again, debatable. But Motiv's manifold definitly have sharper bends and smaller OD that the other high quality ST kits. - Have to replace the stock style passenger side engine mount with a custom one made of PU. Not a fan of PU mount, especially that close to the hot parts. The last PU mount I had from Black Forest Industry started to deform just after two months of winter driving... - Turbo is hard to reach, more of hassle to replace and perform checks on it. Bottom mount just don't have the same visual impact as a nice top mount lol - Probably the most expensive ST kit out there DOC Race Pros: - Equal length runner, good for top end power I suppose, which is what this engine needs - Twin scroll manifold! Good for quick spool. - Get to keep your stock style motor mount, don't have use a custom PU mount - Easier to access and replace turbos and stuff - Top mounts just look so damn cool! - More affordable comparing to the Motiv offerings Cons: - Much longer runner length, bad for spool and transient response maybe? Again, my turbo size will be pretty moderate comparing to those +600whp builds, so not sure how big of issue would that be. - Top mount brings hot parts closer to some of the plastic engine parts (VC, WW tube). But probably manageable with the heat shield, ceramic coat, turbo blanket, and heat wrap/tapes. - Have to relocate coolant reservoir, not a big deal, just a bit of extra work - O2 heat sink is bit undersized according to Chris post on the ADV sensors, so your O2 will die faster maybe? Would like to hear more on this. PCV Currently, the only PCV mod I have is the RB PCV valve and cap on the low pressure side, which actually solved the smoking idle that I experienced after I went full catless. The car desperately need an OCC on the high pressure side though. Car spend a lot of time in boost because of all the track days I do. I can tell from the sparkplugs after a few days on the road course, that the engine is burning through some oil from the intake side. Since my goal is a moderate 500whp on pump gas, the engine probably won't be seeing any boost higher than 20psi. So aside from installing a BMS OCC on the high pressure side and vent the line coming out of the OCC to the intake filter (keeping the flapper valve), I don't see the need for any other mods. Tapping the ports on the intake side and bypassing the low pressure PCV system with an external one like the stuff RB is selling is a bit overkill for my goal IMO (feel free to argue with me on that!). But they do seem like a good solution for those running high boost and chasing big powder. Ignition At my power level, I probably would be ok with the stock coils and just run some colder plugs and gap them closer than stock, but for piece of mind, it might be best just get the upgraded coil kit from Bimmerlife or Precision. It looks like both kits perform the same, despite the different approach each took (dumb vs. smart coil, etc.). I am personally leaning toward the Bimmerlife kit, since it comes with 3d printed connectors that requires less work to install. I am running stock plugs still btw. Seems to doing alright all these years, so other than replacing them after each track season, I didn't bother to experiment with colder plugs. The only time I had problem with it is when I spilled oil on the VC during oil change and didn't bother to clean it up, which caused misfires at WOT because of the oil pooled in the spark plug wells. O2 This is the part I would really like to discuss more with you guys. What's the verdict on the choice of O2 for ST right now? Are stock ones bound to die quick as a pre-turbo sensor? Is ADV sensor a must for ST? Any other equivalent or better alternatives? Fueling Not really interested in PI until someone figure out a properly integration controller that can actually control individual injectors for our engines. The current spray and pray, all or none solution is just not my cup of tea. It only takes a split second to grenade an engine at high rev with lean detonation, and IMO the current solutions out there are just not fast enough to get things under control if one of your DI injectors decided to crap out at WOT. The stage 2 lpfp should be plenty for my pump gas power goal. I am still on original factor injectors (no idea what the index number is, but the car was a MY09 made in late 08), which has been trouble free so far (knock on wood). Did have to replace the stock hpfp myself two years ago, as the pump was starting to die on track and cold start after running full e85 for a few months. It probably was just old and the lower lubricity of e85 and the stress from all the track days I did during those month just finally killed it. Cooling The car has a 7" VRSF FMIC (the old non-HD version). Seems to be doing a good job. But after I switched to DCI intake (had to ditch the stock airbox since it doesn't fit with TBI), I did notice the IAT tends to climb and stabilize at 140F during a 20 mins session. Not sure it is worth the trouble and the potential loss in transient response of a larger FMIC like the 7.5" stepped core that VRSF now sells. Would rather say the $700 for other stuff if the benefits of a larger core is not great for my power level. I am currently running CSF radiator, PPK aux rad and Dinan OC (single core at the passenger side). My current setup should be more enough for street use, since a lot guys are just fine running big ST setup on stock oil cooler Might have to loop in an extra OC for track use though, considering I can still hit 260-270F with the stock twins when pushing hard on a hot day (I do hear ST engines do run cooler oil temp than twins because of less heat buildup at the CHRAs and better turbo efficiency). Drivetrain My car is an 6at. Personally, I never understood the need for trans cooler, since our trans don't really run that hot from the data I gather on track. The highest trans temp I have seen is 105C (which isn't all that hot IMO), and that's after 20mins on hot lapping on road courses. And my trans still shift as smooth as the day I picked this car up brand new from the dealership almost 7 years ago. I have been replacing my trans fluid pretty frequently though (twice now at 58k miles), using Redline D4. Already got LSD, diff brace, subframe bushings, and M3 arms front and back, toe arms, coildovers and all that on the car. The only weak points I can think are the half shafts and gearbox itself. But for the power level I am aiming and for my intended use (not gonna do any hard standing launch), I don't think upgrades on those are necessary (not like there is any good AT upgrades anyway). Installation As much as I would do the install myself, I just don't have the time nor the space to do a project as extensive as this. So this will be done by a shop. Both kits have pretty good fitment that I think any competent person can put together with the right tools, so I don't think this will be a problem. But do let me know any issues you have run into though! Tuning I have been running different versions of JB from BMS since 2010. Great stuff and very happy with the products and the support BMS gave to this platform over the years. Probably just gonna stay with the JB4 and get a custom backend tune. But I am interested in hearing some actual experiences from those who jumped ship to the Motiv boostbox.
    17 replies | 294 view(s)
  • SPR12's Avatar
    10-17-2017, 02:13 PM
    I have about 120k now and my ESS vt2-650 modified kit has overpowered the DCT clutches for some time. I've been doing some research and of course Dodson and SSP make clutches. However, from reviewing the threads it appears no one has cracked the DCT ECU to increase line pressure to effectively make them worthwhile over the GTS program? I need to do something as 1st gear is useless over half throttle it just spins. 2nd spins depending on temps and the like at the top as well. (This wasn't the case when I first added the kit.) I'm debating just swapping in a used DCT off a low mileage car or pulling mine and building. Thoughts? Also, as to further motor upgrades past my 650 kit, it seems the best bet is to get carillo rods with pistons made for the alnsil (sp) liners and not stroke? If I got that route of course I have to do the fuel system. As to the fuel system, is there finally a concensus with the fuel system mods? I know in the past it needed to be converted to return style and running a larger line and using the factory line for the return. However, last I read a few guys figured out how to run a returnless upgrade with factory bmw pumps? Or was it just that they went return style and used a factory bmw pump inline? Lastly, what is the largest rim and tire that fits and works well on the rear of my e92 for this power?? I'm running the stock 10" ZCP'S with 285/30/19 PSS and can only get 8-10k out of them before they cord. I drive the car in the canyons so it's not just straight line stuff so I don't want to sacrifice handling for straight line. The PSS I run in that size are $400 a tire and I'm tired of paying that and living at the tire store. I was thinking of trying the new conti extreme as it's cheap but read it's a downgrade. Also, FYI, NO I'm not going to fit a 295 on a 10" rim and have it handle like crap or do some ricer nonsense. I had to modify the fender liners to fit the 285's and have zero rubbing so I don't want that either. Thanks! I'm weighing my options on the next steps with the car or possibly upgrading to something else. I have a ton of dough into this thing already just in my OS Gikken diff and suspension alone so it makes probably the most sense to keep going.
    18 replies | 81 view(s)
  • Weehe's Avatar
    10-15-2017, 08:20 PM
    Weehe started a thread N55: Bent Rod, Cracked Ring, or? in N55 and N52
    At ~98k miles I installed a Pure Stage 2 and have been running 20psi with E30. For the first time since owning the car (46k miles), I got the low oil, add a quart light. Thinking it was a fluke the first time, I didn't document the mileage. I have gotten the low oil light 3 more times now, every 1500-2000 miles. I started getting a stumble at idle, so replaced my plugs (they had 12k miles on them). All plugs but cylinder 4 looked new. The base and insulator has carbon deposits, while the electrode is crusty white. This made me pretty concerned so I did a compression test: C1-200 C2-160 C3-190 C4-185 C5-200 C6-160 Not really what I was expecting, now I'm concerned about C2 and C6 as well. I also took pics of the new plugs after 300 miles. C4 already had deposits. The rest looked brand new: My next thought was a bad PCV valve in the valve cover causing oil vapors to get sucked into C4. I pulled the intake manifold, but there was no oil residue on the intake track or valves. I also confirmed the main PCV valve is fine with the vacuum test. So oil is coming from after the intake valves. Lastly, I checked all cylinders with a scope. C4 piston was dark brown, burnt oil. All the others looked normal with a little carbon deposit on the sides. There was no visible damage on any cylinder wall, or on the edge of the pistons/rings. So I am at a loss. The car still drive great, only with the occasional stumble at idle. I know these engine can bend rods and oil consumption is the only indicator. Is there anything else it could be? I'd rather not wait for it to pop to find out.
    13 replies | 182 view(s)
  • FRD135i's Avatar
    10-15-2017, 02:15 PM
    I am very surprised that this has not come up before and no one has started one. In a sub-culture like ours, I know some of you have some badass lawns out there and some priceless tips. Post up your lawns and flex some grass nuts. Winter is upon us so dormancy is around the corner. Its a good time to make fall applications in the south to get a head start on the growing season. I am currently going through a mini rehab. I have a St. Augustinegrass front and will be re-seeding/over-seeding a bermuda back. Just to start things off:
    6 replies | 187 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    10-12-2017, 08:42 PM
    Pure Turbos is killing it on the S55 platform right now. They have multiple 700+ whp cars as well as having helped power the platform into the 9's. This 700+ example is an F80 M3 that belongs to Pure Turbos EU office. Let's take a look at the graph from a Superflow WinDyn dyno: Pureturbos Stage 2 - Fuel-It! fuelling solutions - Protuning Freaks Bootmod3 flash - BMS jb4 tuning - Meth kit - CSF cooling upgrades They made a very nice video covering the car in action below. The fact they are delivering their product all over the world and it is showing big numbers is also very telling in of itself.
    6 replies | 86 view(s)
  • M5Dan's Avatar
    10-13-2017, 05:56 PM
    For sale is my Certified Pre-owned 2013 535i Amazing color combo Carbon Black with Cinnamon Full Dakota Leather! Car comes with 6 year/100,000 mile warranty that will be honored at any BMW dealership until September 2019. I bought this one at Bmw of Fort Myers. Car is amazing only has 59K miles. Car has tons of options! M Sport Package with Increased Top Speed Limiter and Sport and Sport + settings, Driver Assistance Package with Lane Change Warning and blind spot Surround View side and top view cameras, Technology Package LED Adaptive Headlights with auto hi beams, Navigation, Heads Up Display, Premium Package. Additionally it has 8 speed Sport Automatic Transmission with paddle shifters, Heated and Multi-Contour seats, Park Distance Control with back up camera, side cameras, and top camera with surround view, Power rear sunshade, Power Trunk, Comfort access, satellite radio, Premium Hi-Fi stereo system, Anthracite wood trim. Car is stock no mods I only added the Euro M badge on fender below side marker see picture, No issues always serviced at BMW dealership, No accidents Clean Clean CarFax Vin Number WBAFR7C54DC823032 All maintenance is update to date car has a 3 year bmw maintenance package I can include if new owner wants. Asking $28,000 or Best Offer
    6 replies | 139 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    10-14-2017, 08:20 PM
    Welcome to a real enthusiast forum Ruben.
    4 replies | 122 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    10-17-2017, 08:05 PM
    Unfortunately, there are a good number of tuners out there that will lie, cheat, and steal. Claiming dynographs that actually come from others or editing graphs is something lesser known tuners do to try and elevate their profile. This is something BimmerBoost covered before. TRM Tuning or TRM BMW Performance Engineering is the latest tuner caught red handed attempting to pass off someone else's graph as their own. The claim is that this is a 1256 wheel horsepower BMW M52 tuned by TRM with their parts and a 'big turbo' as he calls it. The problem? This is a Supra graph from Induction Performance: TRM literally just edited out where it says Induction Performance on the original graph and cut off the power and torque curves past 7k rpm. They changed the peak torque figure by borrowing the 2 and the 5 from the HP figure to 972.25 from 971.89 in the original. Peak HP was changed from 1256.61 to 1256.12. Amateur hour work that anyone with Windows and MS Paint can do. Why didn't they think of changing the runfile number at the very least so it would not be such a blatant copy? Michael McCoy of TRM continues on with his BS: When in doubt, ask for runfiles. Additionally, if a tuner is willing to lie about their work and steal from others there are likely many other things they would be willing to lie about. Buyer beware.
    3 replies | 36 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    10-16-2017, 04:51 PM
    What we have here is a 3.0 liter turbocharged BMW inline-6 going up against a naturally aspirated AMG V8 more than twice its size. To be fair, the I6 is boosted with a turbocharger upgrade from Pure Turbos. Depending on supporting mods that can push it into the 480 wheel horsepower range. The M156 V8 is no slouch but it is in a heavier car. AMS doesn't post a graph for their tune but we seriously doubt they are close to 480 whp and they are not known as the premier M156 tuner. The B58 dispatches it easily with just these mods: - PureTurbos Stage 1 B58 - Meth Kit - FBO - BMS JB4
    4 replies | 35 view(s)
  • quentin99's Avatar
    10-17-2017, 11:08 PM
    quentin99 started a thread E82/E88: Coding with ncs expert in 1 Series and 1M
    So im trying to code a few things in my bmw and I try to load the ecu and get this error code after a few seconds
    3 replies | 31 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    10-13-2017, 04:23 PM
    Don't know much about this but they claim to offer OBD-II transmission tuning for the N54 platform. N55 as well. Is this their own software or modified software from Europe? Anyone actually have any results with this?
    4 replies | 106 view(s)
  • lulz_m3's Avatar
    10-13-2017, 01:47 PM
    Vin available upon request Clean title never any accidents Exterior: Melbourne Red Metallic Interior: Black Novillo leather and Carbon trim Options: - Navigation system - Competition Package - Convenience Package - Premium Package 2 - Extended leather - Comfort Access - Enhanced Premium Sound - Heated Seats - Sunroof - Rear PDC Mods: - Coding for all the standard items-- folding mirrors, nav warning delete, start/stop delete, euro hazards, etc. - Euro front bumper (no reflectors) - OEM BMW Performance Kidney Grills - Evolve Stage II tune - Evolve DCT tune - K&N drop in filter - BMW Performance alcantara wheel trim - BMW Performance alcantara parking boot and handle - Passport 9500ci (built in radar detector w/laser Jamming) - Bridgestone S04 Pole Position tires in O.E. M3 GTS specs (255/35/19 Front, 285/30/19 Rear) Significant Maintenance items: - Spark Plugs replaced at 90k - Rod bearings replaced by AutoCouture Motoring (WPC coated bearings w/ARP rod bolts) - Motor mounts - Throttle actuator valve - Water Pump - Power Steering Pump and Fluid Reservoir (fluid flush) - Fluids replaced -- DCT, Brake, Coolant, Differential Vehicle was dealer maintained up until 66k miles, 2nd owner maintained the vehicle at Autocouture Motoring and Rogue Engineering. Rod bearings were replaced and upgraded by Autocouture Motoring and thoroughly inspected by Rogue Engineering. Dct, Brake, differential fluids were changed in late 2015, engine oil has been changed every 5-7.5k miles. Current mileage ~112000 and will continue to increase as its my daily driver. (I drive 50 miles per day, all Highway) Asking $26,000 OBO. Vehicle is located in Jacksonville Florida - willing to ship at buyers expense.
    3 replies | 75 view(s)
  • 93siro's Avatar
    10-14-2017, 08:35 AM
    from google translate:
    2 replies | 70 view(s)
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