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  • GiveEmTheDD's Avatar
    11-03-2014, 11:13 AM
    Hi everyone, First let me give a well deserved shout out to @wedge1967, and @ BuraQ for helping me dial in the car over the last 3 weeks. Little bit of background about the car. 2010 e92 335XI, daily driven. Over the last year and a half i have been building the car piece by piece. I had been working with a well known tuner via e-tune, we made adjustments after every mod, fuel change and most recently RB's. The car felt great with the RBs installed and new tune, I figured with the season coming to a close, i may as well get it to the strip. Honestly, the car felt smooth, and strong (much better than the COBB OTS) and based on prior maps, i expected nothing less. The best run i was able to pull out was 11.9 at about 119 mph. Not disappointed, but i figured maybe something was "missing." In walk Wedge/BQ. I reached out to Wedge we looked over some old logs, dyno etc and the first thing he said was, "We might not be able to do any better, those guys know what they're doing, but we can try!" 2 weeks ago, I road tripped back to the track (about 68 miles, 130 miles round trip) using the 3rd revision from Wedge. The change in results were DRASTIC. The best run of the day was 11.624 @ 121.130 MPH. The car ran fantastic, consistently running between 11.6s-7s all day. Fast forward to today: Made the long trip back, with a few more revisions. Best pass of the day 11.363 @ 122.66 MPH. The car felt STRONG, made 6 passes all between 11.363-11.455. Little background about the car, the only thing that changed on my car is the TUNE. Fuel ratio has stayed the same, no parts have been swapped out, I drive this car daily to work, to the gym, around town using this map. Thanks again @Wedge1967, cant wait to see what we can do next!
    156 replies | 4343 view(s)
  • BlackJetE90OC's Avatar
    10-28-2014, 06:14 PM
    E90 M3 - ESS VT2-625 SC, Akra GT4, 100/91 oct blend F80 M3 - Catless downpipes, full Akra Exhaust, JB4 Map 7, 100/91 oct blend
    187 replies | 1807 view(s)
  • Flinchy's Avatar
    10-28-2014, 11:51 AM
    allegedly stock bottom end, no mention of head work, completely changed hot-air-intake.. and somehow 100% E85? ED: looking at the graph, struggling to believe, as it's holding 600whp+ to basically 7k...
    115 replies | 4670 view(s)
  • WedgePerformance's Avatar
    11-13-2014, 09:18 PM
    Just wrapped up a dyno session on my E92 AT over at PSI in Portland. Mods include COBB v3, BQ/WP Advanced Tuning Map, VRSF DP, AFE Stage II Pre DCI, ER CP, FORGE DVs, HPF 7" FMIC, RB PCV, Aquamist HFS4, Factory Catback w/MidCats, FFTEC 455 LPBP. Fuel - E85 mixed with 92 octane. Around E40. 100% Meth flowing @ 800ml per minute. Although there is probably a few more HP in there with E60 but my HPFP can't handle the fuel demand at higher ethanol content with the torque we are making. Dyno room temps were in the low 60's with one small fan. We have made a few torque related changes from the (488rwhp) pull we made on the DynoDynamics dyno. More advance, leaner air/fuel ratios, slightly different torque driver settings to allow for torque to ramp up slower making the car much more drive-able. If I had more time I would have scaled my timing back as the car seems to like 12 ramp to 13. I think I would have made more power as my timing might have been more consistent. Every car is a bit different... and this was a max effort setup and the car delivered 484rwhp. So it's time to back it down to a happy 12 deg where it should still make very impressive stock turbo numbers if not more power. I think with upgraded intake plumbing, upgraded HPFP, and E85 with meth we could see 500rwhp from stock turbos. Do I think it's worth the effort? Nope... RB Turbo's will be next on my list of upgrades. Stock Turbo Dynojet World Record... What's even more impressive, it was done with an automatic... Special thanks to BuraQ... Wouldn't be here today without you bro. <- LOG ->
    103 replies | 3699 view(s)
  • Sales@vargasturbotech's Avatar
    10-27-2014, 02:57 PM
    Despite our best efforts to get our shop car running properly in time for the event we decided not to run the car at all this past weekend. The #2 cylinder is leaking down over 25% and we will be putting another stock motor in shortly to continue development so we just cruised down to Coalinga to spectate. Here are some photos from the event. Hope you all have a great week! It will be a very busy and exciting one for us as we continue to assemble / ship the Stage 2+ N54 turbos and are awaiting testing of the world's first S55 turbo upgrade :music-rockout:.
    93 replies | 3009 view(s)
  • quing's Avatar
    10-31-2014, 08:59 PM
    Hello all, I rarely post on the forums but a few months ago after one of my stock turbo went dead, I decided it time to upgrade! I contacted Todd Cope at The Horsepower Barn in Washington for their AD Engineering Single PTE 6262 Turbo Kit. The price was right and it the quality of the kit looks very good so I went ahead and ordered it. It took about three months for me to get the kit but it was due to the carbon fiber intake tube that needs to be custom made from scratch so it took a while but it was well worth the wait. I had Sammy installed the kit for me since he has done a ton of turbo swaps and knows what’s he doing when it comes to BMWs and cars. Two days of hard work and he’s was done with the transplant of my motor. The turbo is in and the engine is back in its engine bay. We quickly put it on the dyno to have Jake at Motiv remote dyno tune the car. There were some issues with my spark plugs and 02 sensors so after a many pulls Jake called it a night and we ended up with 480hp/430tq on pump. Jake said the turbo is very efficient and we still have a lot of room for more power after I get all the little bugs taking care of. Overall I am very happy to get my car back and that everything went smoothly. When I got behind the steering and start driving the car for the first time, it felt really smooth until at about 4k rpm when the wastegate open, the car just screams power. It’s a blast to drive my car again now. My buddy who was driving behind me said my car sounded like a bike, it’s loud. I even let my buddy who owns a c6 Z06 drove the car and he was impress! He’s a BMW hater but after driving my car his impression was he really like it a lot and said it feels faster than when it had it FBO with E85 stack with JB4 and custom tune. He actually wants to buy a 335i now after driving my car. When you put the hood after driving the car hard the engine bay feels a lot cooler after compared to the stock twins. I am still working with Jake to dial the tune to get more power on pump so I’ll update you guys when I make more power. I managed to get a video of the dyno run but no graph :( . A lot of thanks to: Todd Cope and Andy Divers at The Horsepower Barn & AD Engineering Sammy at Sammy’s Auto Services Jake at Motiv
    68 replies | 2976 view(s)
  • Ingeniator's Avatar
    11-02-2014, 04:37 AM
    Gents, Starting to plan out the built engine I want to eventually get to 9K but would be happy to see any increase in powerband. I have read through some of the past posts but I wanted a new thread to limit the clutter. Looking for input from @alex@ABRhouston @MikeB@FFTEC @Mike@VAC. others with experience on this kind of thing. So I'm looking at perceived problems. Open DeckI know full sleeves were looked at to fix the open deck. But it is hard to justify the expense with no failures. What I want to know is has anyone looked at a block brace or pinning. Properly done with cylinder honing it may be a good interim step. We already have Iron sleeves. My concern is heat but proper scalloping and drilled holes may maintain enough coolant flow. Valve trainThis is already beat to deathI think. I mainly just want confirmation that the new valves are light weight enough to do 9K. We also need springs that can handle high backpressure but are going to handle the high rpm. Not sure how the current options compare to S54 spring options but it may be a lead. Bottom EndA Blueprinted and balanced rotating assembly will be important but we need to reduce mass but maintain strength not sure how the current parts stack up on this but I want confirmation on what you think the rpm limit will be numbers wise. If we can't get there with current parts what are you thinking we need. Also are we using gapless rings yet. The biggest thing hurting reliability right now on the high boost motors is crankcase pressure. I want to fix that with a dry sump or vacuum pump but reducing blow by is important. AccessoriesNot sure what will start failing at this engine speed. My biggest concerns would be the oil pump and HPFP. I'm planning on dry sump by the time I try and push the redline this much. The HPFP is a question mark? @Tony@VargasTurboTech do you have any input when you were shotgun testing? I think with the oil pump removed and possibly the hpfp you can improve the cam chain setup to make it a little more robust to rpm. Vacuum pump is another one but it isn't needed on a standalone boost control car with manual brakes. I think the alternator may be alright if not the pulley size can be scaled up a bit. Looking forward to what you guys have to say. Thanks
    64 replies | 1791 view(s)
  • cloakedm3's Avatar
    11-06-2014, 11:49 AM
    the old spec did not want to play with the 6766 very long we put it on the high setting so we will see how it does looks like mixed reviews on what works best
    60 replies | 1293 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    11-16-2014, 09:14 PM
    Was able to line up with LongBoarder for a friendly battle of the platforms... The F80 won this round. :)
    50 replies | 1286 view(s)
  • fastgti69's Avatar
    11-10-2014, 11:36 PM
    Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on and posting much lately. Just lurking around reading posts here and there. @Terry@BMS and I hit up the dyno Couple weeks ago right before SS 1/2 Mile event. Did some pulls to see how we stand on this new turbo and how it looks. I did the usual e40 blend and 100% Meth. I really like this turbo, it's not much difference at all from the 6465 in terms of response and spool. Map 7 (23Psi) did 670whp, compared to 630whp run on same boost from the 6465 1.00ar. I was already pleased with the gains there between the two turbos. We decided to slowly turn up the boost and keep testing. At 26 Psi we made 712 whp, topping my previous record of 709whp with the 6465 1.00ar at 29 psi. We decided to turn it up some more, as usual of course ;). At 29 psi we made a solid 753 whp. :music-rockout: We decided to turn up the boost again, but this time a transistor shorted in the DME. That ended the day for testing higher psi with the 6767. Nothing new when it comes to the older DME in the 2007, I was happy to get it working though. A day before SS, I wasn't having a good time. Worked hard to find transistors from a local store, after I luckily found them. Sebastian@Specialty Z helped with the soldering on the DME board, I didn't want to do it myself as I didn't feel comfortable. Anyways, I will turn up the boost and test again soon. This time with the CPE Port Injection and full E85 to test the limits of the turbo and the port injection using high hp applications. Again, this couldn't happen without the help of Burger Motorsports and @Terry@BMS himself. Here is a comparison between my highest three WHP from different testing and turbos. 6465 .84ar @ 26 psi - 669whp 6465 1.00ar @29psi- 709whp 6767 .84ar @29psi- 753whp
    51 replies | 1368 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    11-17-2014, 10:11 PM
    Hey guys, Finally got a handle on the false knock issue and was able to strap the car down for a few higher boost dyno runs. We went with a "small" Precision 6266 G2 turbo for to keep low end response strong and I'm really happy we did. This thing drives great with instant torque almost anywhere. The little turbo puts out some decent power up top too. These runs are on 50% race gas and meth. Up next we'll be converting the car over to 100% E85 using our port injection setup and hopefully can squeeze a little more power out of it.
    38 replies | 1719 view(s)
  • EvanL's Avatar
    11-17-2014, 06:12 PM
    Cold weather has officially set in up here in the Great White North, which is giving my car fits on cold starts with E85 blends. Following off of SAE research presented in 2009-01-0620, approximately 3x the amount of fuel injected during a cold start is necessary when using E85 versus gasoline to compensate for the vapor pressure differential in cold weather. Seeing as the Fuel Open Loop tables are not yet defined in ATR or any of the XDFs I've seen for TunerPro, it appears we're currently sitting at a dead end with respect to fixing this issue with a DME flash until Cobb or someone with major WinOLS skills can crack the table. I can't imagine I'm the only person driving a N54 in cold climates with an E85 blend so the question becomes, what other solutions have been brought to the table to fix this issue?
    48 replies | 933 view(s)
  • BoostAddict's Avatar
    10-28-2014, 03:43 PM
    Hey everybody, I just wanted to show you guys a diff lockdown brace I produced. I originally built this as a one off for BuraQ back in 2012. The goal was to have an affordable, durable, and easily installed unit. The results worked out as expected, minimized wheel hop and created an overall tighter feeling rear end. The brace attaches to the bottom two differential cover bolts, and up to the subframe. No modification/drilling is needed. The subframes have holes there already. Coming from the 350z and e36 community, it was not uncommon for people to run braces like this with great result. As more people are starting to make big power, I thought it was time to start producing these. The braces are hand made here in the USA out of steel. They are TIG welded, then finished with a black epoxy coating. The Braces will also include 304SS hardware. I test fit every single brace made before coating to ensure fitment. That is a testament to how fast and easy installation is. -Justin Price is $199 + Shipping http://boostaddictions.com/products/boost-addictions-differential-brace-for-e9x-335i Notes: 1) 135i Fitment has been confirmed. Also see note 2. 2) Fitment is for large diff cars only at this time 3) For anybody interested in ordering, please confirm that the subframe hole locations are in the same position as marked in red in the picture below. 4) For International Orders please PM me so I can setup a Paypal Invoice and give you a shipping estimate. Install Video:
    38 replies | 1048 view(s)
  • wtfmarine's Avatar
    11-05-2014, 03:03 PM
    Well that didn't end well lol. Coolant hose popped off. Do real damage. Well I almost shit my pants. I will edit this when I get home. Just waiting for everything to cool off.
    36 replies | 1082 view(s)
  • boostedmaserati's Avatar
    10-26-2014, 12:56 AM
    boostedmaserati started a thread TPG goes 11.1! in S55
    Unconfirmed fastest time at 11.1. These are great guys and have done lots of work on some of my cars, they are a force to be reckoned with! m.youtube.com/watch?v=5C1hQuSpsD0&feature=youtu.be
    32 replies | 609 view(s)
  • BuraQ's Avatar
    11-10-2014, 11:35 PM
    Here are the forewarning tell tail signs of a failing driveshaft on a N54 with DCT 1) "Excessive" vibration when car begins to spool between 2500k - 4000k RPMs 2) A Clacking sound or knocking sound, on launches, or hard acceleration on turns, as though something is slipping and not gripping, coming from the passenger side rear wheel. It can easily be mistaken for a bad CV joint on the half shaft 3) Your car stops moving and you hear grinding noise underneath your car :lol: stop pressing on the gas pedal and just call a tow truck Where does it break ? Here is another view. It is severed within the shaft circular area that houses bearings How many did I break ? 3 Is it tuned related ? Not really, I have witnessed first hand it breaking on an all stock car which was a lease. Yes, the drive was an aggressive driver and loved to spin the wheel in 1st and 2 second. Gears most common for it to make it fail ? 1st and 2nd gears regardless of wheel hop or not. the more torque the quicker to fail Does wheel hop cause it ? Yes and no. Wheel hope is a contributor to it failing, it all depends oh how severe the wheel hop is. The first one I broke was on a wheel hop with no warning signs. The later driveshaft rarely to no wheel hop and it started to fail. Roll racing is perfectly fine starting from 3rd gear. Just keep away from 1st and 2nd gear WOT Solutions ? see posts below as this thread develops for more information (technically I am too tired to type solutions) All vendors can contribute their solutions. However, please respect other vendor' solutions and opinions :) . Just suggest your own products or ideas without have to directly or indirectly involve another vendor. No hitting below the belt, no ear biting, no sucker punches allowed
    29 replies | 733 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    11-05-2014, 11:22 AM
    Tony@VargasTurboTech started a thread 3's a crowd in N54
    Got a lot of construction going on right now and had to move all the motors outside for a the day, seemed like a good photo op. left to right Stage 2+, Stage 3, in house shop project..:naughty:
    25 replies | 1099 view(s)
  • Abacus38's Avatar
    10-30-2014, 11:31 AM
    Currently I'm running e30 on map 5 however she starting to misfire and shutter above 5k rpm. Im going to replace all the coils and spark plugs but I was wondering if its worth forking over the extra coin for the s55 coils?
    20 replies | 932 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    11-13-2014, 05:49 PM
    The BMW S1000RR is an absurdly fast bike in stock form capable of trapping in the tall 140's. Beating one is a very tall order for any street car in stock form let alone tuned. This S1000RR is tuned though by BrenTuning and also features a full Akrapovic exhaust. That should easily push it well into the 150+ trap speed range in the 1/4 mile. Procharged Vettes are of course capable of hitting those trap speeds but require a built motor and a ton of boost. We do not know the specs on this C6 only that based on the result the blower needs to move quite a bit air if the owner wants to run with this bike.
    30 replies | 300 view(s)
  • G0TB00ST?'s Avatar
    11-20-2014, 12:12 AM
    So this morning I was on my way to class when this kid in a scion tc past by me. He apparently hit a patch of black ice and lost control of his vehicle. I saw the whole thing coming, but there was nothing I could do to save my car, he smacked into me and sent us both flying off into a ditch on the side of the highway. I will find out for sure if the car is totaled or not in the next few days, but after talking to my body shop (whom I have a great relationship with) they are confident it will be totaled. This really sucks because my car was finally coming together I just installed bc racing coilovers a few weeks ago along with all the other mods done to the car. Thankfully I was not at fault so hopefully everything will be covered by his insurance, but this still sucks:( I really don't know what car to get next... I loved my m3, but I don't want to get another one while I am still in college, this whole thing just sucks I worked hard to get this car and get it where is was and now all of it is gone.
    21 replies | 1099 view(s)
  • Hokie_335i's Avatar
    11-08-2014, 04:25 PM
    Hey guys so I have a 2007 335i with 56k miles. Downshifted to 3rd yesterday and when I put my foot down, there was a loud noise and now I'm getting a bunch of codes. The main one is p30BA The other codes are a slew of misfires and such. I researched the problem and it looks like the MOSFETS got fried. Has anyone experienced this, if so what path did you take to fix it? I need buy new MOSFETs and replace them. If I do this, which ones do I need to buy? I read that most people get them from Digikey, I just don't know which to get. I found these but want to make sure they're the right ones.. IRF644S
    28 replies | 593 view(s)
  • MOTIV Motorsport's Avatar
    11-07-2014, 09:03 PM
    Hey guys, I just wanted to do a quick update and let everyone know production is on schedule and coming along beautifully. Here are some pics of manifolds, intake piping, hot pipes and assorted other pipes.
    16 replies | 1180 view(s)
  • DavidV's Avatar
    11-07-2014, 03:33 AM
    At the SEMA autoshow A CF splitter, wider wheel arches, and some restyling of the bumpers, sideskirts and spoiler. And a matt silver wrap.
    19 replies | 442 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    10-26-2014, 07:23 AM
    Interesting tune only matchup here of the new turbocharged F80 M3 and F82 M3. Both cars of course share the same 3.0 liter direct injected S55 inline-6 turbo motor. The only modification to each car is a tune with the camera car being the F80 M3 with the BMS JB4 tune. The BMS JB4 car is running on Map 7. The ECU Tuning Group car has their tuning solution which they claim adds 89 horsepower and 96 lb-ft of torque. BimmerBoost has not seen any dyno sheets or timeslips backing up their claims and that tends to be the general trend ECU Tuning Group products. BimmerBoost has seen dyno sheets for the BMS JB4 tuned S55 motors and they are over 500 wheel horsepower. Dynosheets are one thing and putting that power down in practice is another. In practice, the JB4 car simply pulls away (although it does start early). One sided race:
    23 replies | 296 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    11-19-2014, 05:41 PM
    Hey guys, As a few of you know we've been fighting a false knock issue with our FFTEC built E92. Apparently the forged pistons or something else in the build has increased the engine harmonics leading to the DME detecting false knock. Typically this would be solved by adjusting the knock sensor sensitivity tables within the flash maps but these tables are not yet defined limiting us to external solutions. We found a short term solution in adding plastic spacers between the knock sensors and the block to "dampen" their feedback. Enough to block out false noise but allow legitimate knock through. This allowed us to 1/2 mile race the car, put down some nice dyno numbers, etc. After a lot of abuse we inspected the plugs which looked perfect. While this spacer method was effective it's crude and not adjustable. Going too thick triggers a "knock sensor too quiet" plausibility code during cruising. So I removed the spacers and started working on an electronic alternative. It turns out the solution is very simple. A 100k trim pot on each sensor signal wire (spots 19 & 20 on the large black subconnector). At 0% lots of false knock. And at 65% no false knock. Use one pot on each bank so they can be independently adjusted. Going too high will also filter out real knock & trigger a knock sensor too quiet code so you'll have to use judgement and trail & error if you choose to play around with this. In a related note I've been starting to wonder if ijeos automatic timing flatline is really just false knock. We'll be doing some additional testing on that front soon and I'll keep everyone updated as to the results.
    17 replies | 470 view(s)
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