Close

Activity Stream

Filter
Sort By Time Show
Recent Recent Popular Popular Anytime Anytime Last 24 Hours Last 24 Hours Last 7 Days Last 7 Days Last 30 Days Last 30 Days All All Photos Photos Forum Forums Articles Articles
  • Andrius's Avatar
    Today, 03:48 AM
    Hi, i did not. My aim was to check cause of cyl1 misfire
    9 replies | 185 view(s)
  • Sticky2's Avatar
    3 replies | 180 view(s)
  • cloud9blue's Avatar
    Today, 03:25 AM
    Car is relative stock when it comes to engine mods, just the standard FBO setup with JB4 and MHD backend flash. Tried running full e85 for a while with fuel-it stage 2 lpfp and TPI, but partial throttle response was a bit of hit of miss on with that setup. It was kind of annoying for the road course events I like to do with this car, so I went back to pump gas again. I am seriously thinking of getting a decent ST kit to replace the aging stock twins and have been reading quite a bit on forums to catch on the recent ST development. My goal is to be around a conservative 500-550whp on pump gas with DI only and quick spool and good transient response. So probably a 6062 or even a 5862 turbo is enough for me. Anyway, I just want to use this thread to compare notes with the rest of you and gather information that might be helpful for other members down the line. - ST Kit At the moment, it seems like Doc Race and Motiv are probably the best complete kits available on the market. And I am still kind of deciding between the two. Not really considering the VM/ACF and ADE kits since they have long lead time and questionable availability. Not gonna bother with the low end offers like On3 and etc. Nothing wrong with saving some money, but I just don't have the energy to deal with potential issues of those kits. If I gonna do this, I would rather get it right the first time. Btw does FFTEC still make N54 kit? Motiv Pros: - Durable manifold design, whole kit seems very well put together and reliable; these kits have been around for a few years now without any hardware failure. I know quite a few track cars (road course) run Motiv kits. - Clean bottom mount design and less heat related issues down the road because of that - Well executed pre turbo O2 bungs, with long heat sink so your O2 will last longer - Short runner length, faster spool (for mid size turbos) and better transient response? I know these are somewhat debatable depending on the actual execution. - Recirculated wastegate dumps is an option, less noise and less smell during stop and go traffic? Cons: - Log style manifold is more restrictive? Again, debatable. But Motiv's manifold definitly have sharper bends and smaller OD that the other high quality ST kits. - Have to replace the stock style passenger side engine mount with a custom one made of PU. Not a fan of PU mount, especially that close to the hot parts. The last PU mount I had from Black Forest Industry started to deform just after two months of winter driving... - Turbo is hard to reach, more of hassle to replace and perform checks on it. Bottom mount just don't have the same visual impact as a nice top mount lol - Probably the most expensive ST kit out there DOC Race Pros: - Equal length runner, good for top end power I suppose, which is what this engine needs - Twin scroll manifold! Good for quick spool. - Get to keep your stock style motor mount, don't have use a custom PU mount - Easier to access and replace turbos and stuff - Top mounts just look so damn cool! - More affordable comparing to the Motiv offerings Cons: - Much longer runner length, bad for spool and transient response maybe? Again, my turbo size will be pretty moderate comparing to those +600whp builds, so not sure how big of issue would that be. - Top mount brings hot parts closer to some of the plastic engine parts (VC, WW tube). But probably manageable with the heat shield, ceramic coat, turbo blanket, and heat wrap/tapes. - Have to relocate coolant reservoir, not a big deal, just a bit of extra work - O2 heat sink is bit undersized according to Chris post on the ADV sensors, so your O2 will die faster maybe? Would like to hear more on this. PCV Currently, the only PCV mod I have is the RB PCV valve and cap on the low pressure side, which actually solved the smoking idle that I experienced after I went full catless. The car desperately need an OCC on the high pressure side though. Car spend a lot of time in boost because of all the track days I do. I can tell from the sparkplugs after a few days on the road course, that the engine is burning through some oil from the intake side. Since my goal is a moderate 500whp on pump gas, the engine probably won't be seeing any boost higher than 20psi. So aside from installing a BMS OCC on the high pressure side and vent the line coming out of the OCC to the intake filter (keeping the flapper valve), I don't see the need for any other mods. Tapping the ports on the intake side and bypassing the low pressure PCV system with an external one like the stuff RB is selling is a bit overkill for my goal IMO (feel free to argue with me on that!). But they do seem like a good solution for those running high boost and chasing big powder. Ignition At my power level, I probably would be ok with the stock coils and just run some colder plugs and gap them closer than stock, but for piece of mind, it might be best just get the upgraded coil kit from Bimmerlife or Precision. It looks like both kits perform the same, despite the different approach each took (dumb vs. smart coil, etc.). I am personally leaning toward the Bimmerlife kit, since it comes with 3d printed connectors that requires less work to install. I am running stock plugs still btw. Seems to doing alright all these years, so other than replacing them after each track season, I didn't bother to experiment with colder plugs. The only time I had problem with it is when I spilled oil on the VC during oil change and didn't bother to clean it up, which caused misfires at WOT because of the oil pooled in the spark plug wells. O2 This is the part I would really like to discuss more with you guys. What's the verdict on the choice of O2 for ST right now? Are stock ones bound to die quick as a pre-turbo sensor? Is ADV sensor a must for ST? Any other equivalent or better alternatives? Fueling Not really interested in PI until someone figure out a properly integration controller that can actually control individual injectors for our engines. The current spray and pray, all or none solution is just not my cup of tea. It only takes a split second to grenade an engine at high rev with lean detonation, and IMO the current solutions out there are just not fast enough to get things under control if one of your DI injectors decided to crap out at WOT. The stage 2 lpfp should be plenty for my pump gas power goal. I am still on original factor injectors (no idea what the index number is, but the car was a MY09 made in late 08), which has been trouble free so far (knock on wood). Did have to replace the stock hpfp myself two years ago, as the pump was starting to die on track and cold start after running full e85 for a few months. It probably was just old and the lower lubricity of e85 and the stress from all the track days I did during those month just finally killed it. Cooling The car has a 7" VRSF FMIC (the old non-HD version). Seems to be doing a good job. But after I switched to DCI intake (had to ditch the stock airbox since it doesn't fit with TBI), I did notice the IAT tends to climb and stabilize at 140F during a 20 mins session. Not sure it is worth the trouble and the potential loss in transient response of a larger FMIC like the 7.5" stepped core that VRSF now sells. Would rather say the $700 for other stuff if the benefits of a larger core is not great for my power level. I am currently running CSF radiator, PPK aux rad and Dinan OC (single core at the passenger side). My current setup should be more enough for street use, since a lot guys are just fine running big ST setup on stock oil cooler Might have to loop in an extra OC for track use though, considering I can still hit 260-270F with the stock twins when pushing hard on a hot day (I do hear ST engines do run cooler oil temp than twins because of less heat buildup at the CHRAs and better turbo efficiency). Drivetrain My car is an 6at. Personally, I never understood the need for trans cooler, since our trans don't really run that hot from the data I gather on track. The highest trans temp I have seen is 105C (which isn't all that hot IMO), and that's after 20mins on hot lapping on road courses. And my trans still shift as smooth as the day I picked this car up brand new from the dealership almost 7 years ago. I have been replacing my trans fluid pretty frequently though (twice now at 58k miles), using Redline D4. Already got LSD, diff brace, subframe bushings, and M3 arms front and back, toe arms, coildovers and all that on the car. The only weak points I can think are the half shafts and gearbox itself. But for the power level I am aiming and for my intended use (not gonna do any hard standing launch), I don't think upgrades on those are necessary (not like there is any good AT upgrades anyway). Installation As much as I would do the install myself, I just don't have the time nor the space to do a project as extensive as this. So this will be done by a shop. Both kits have pretty good fitment that I think any competent person can put together with the right tools, so I don't think this will be a problem. But do let me know any issues you have run into though! Tuning I have been running different versions of JB from BMS since 2010. Great stuff and very happy with the products and the support BMS gave to this platform over the years. Probably just gonna stay with the JB4 and get a custom backend tune. But I am interested in hearing some actual experiences from those who jumped ship to the Motiv boostbox.
    0 replies | 0 view(s)
  • Aces's Avatar
    3 replies | 180 view(s)
  • DavidV's Avatar
    Today, 02:29 AM
    Sure. Despite the absence of pop rivets, this is a project of Liberty Walk.
    3410 replies | 1091653 view(s)
  • BrownPower's Avatar
    Today, 02:12 AM
    gonna have to remove down pipers and go from there. bracket and pipes are in the way. not sure about the vacuum canister question though
    58 replies | 14235 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Today, 01:28 AM
    Hey raj8248: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 2 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Today, 12:51 AM
    Welcome to a real enthusiast forum CreArive1.
    0 replies | 2 view(s)
  • Sticky2's Avatar
    Today, 12:41 AM
    Sticky2 replied to a thread E82/E88: Coding with ncs expert in 1 Series and 1M
    levanime
    1 replies | 5 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Today, 12:12 AM
    Welcome franky J, take a look around, I think you will like what you see.
    0 replies | 3 view(s)
  • levanime's Avatar
    Today, 12:02 AM
    Did u code injectors after swapping?
    9 replies | 185 view(s)
  • Newguy123's Avatar
    3 replies | 180 view(s)
  • Sticky2's Avatar
    Yesterday, 11:09 PM
    They'll avoid prosecution as usual. How that administration gets away with so much corruption I have no clue.
    1613 replies | 1454020 view(s)
  • quentin99's Avatar
    Yesterday, 11:08 PM
    quentin99 started a thread E82/E88: Coding with ncs expert in 1 Series and 1M
    So im trying to code a few things in my bmw and I try to load the ecu and get this error code after a few seconds
    1 replies | 5 view(s)
  • BlackJetE90OC's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:58 PM
    Its going down. http://thehill.com/policy/national-security/355749-fbi-uncovered-russian-bribery-plot-before-obama-administration
    1613 replies | 1454020 view(s)
  • Aus335iGuy's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:08 PM
    Awesome - Please elaborate on the interesting conditions?
    15 replies | 837 view(s)
  • PureEvilN54's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:36 PM
    Sticky.......DCT is good, I have an electrical drain and a small racing battery which keeps draining and the car loses clutch adaptations, so I have to work that out. But hoping its good for NFZ on Nov4. should have some nice slips if there are no issues.
    28 replies | 919 view(s)
  • PureEvilN54's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:33 PM
    This is a full weight car minus the back seats and welds
    28 replies | 919 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:25 PM
    Something to shoot for:
    5 replies | 130 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:20 PM
    Yuvs he's right. Hybrids are your best bet if you're trying to save money rather than going for a crappy single. If you're going to do a large single, do it right. Don't skimp. You get what you pay for. In many cases with JPworkz you never even get what you paid for.
    13 replies | 403 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:10 PM
    A few days ago BoostAddict posted some GPS acceleration results for the Kia Stinger 3.3 liter turbo V6. Well, Car and Driver got their hands on the car and their numbers are not quite as impressive. Their 1/4 mile sprint is half a second slower with a 13.2 @ 108. Not to mention the curb weight figure. The Kia Stinger is heavy! 4157 pounds to be exact. All wheel drive is nice but wow does it come with a penalty. The Stinger is carrying similar weight to a BMW M5. Car and Driver feels the handling is a bit floaty. They also complained about the throttle and the transmission being slow to respond to commands. Overall the praised the value but stated the German competition is more fun to drive. For the $52,595 tested price it seems KIA comes up a bit short in driving dynamics. VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, all-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door hatchback PRICE AS TESTED (MFR'S EST): $52,595 (base price: $39,895) ENGINE TYPE: twin-turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve V-6, aluminum block and heads, direct fuel injection DISPLACEMENT: 204 cu in, 3342 cc POWER: 365 hp @ 6000 rpm TORQUE: 376 lb-ft @ 1300 rpm TRANSMISSION: 8-speed automatic with manual shifting mode DIMENSIONS: WHEELBASE: 114.4 in LENGTH: 190.2 in WIDTH: 73.6 in HEIGHT: 55.1 in PASSENGER VOLUME: 96 cu ft CARGO VOLUME: 23 cu ft CURB WEIGHT: 4157 lb C/D TEST RESULTS: Zero to 60 mph: 4.6 sec Zero to 100 mph: 11.3 sec Zero to 130 mph: 19.9 sec Zero to 150 mph: 30.5 sec Rolling start, 5-60 mph: 5.3 sec Top gear, 30-50 mph: 2.6 sec Top gear, 50-70 mph: 3.4 sec Standing -mile: 13.2 sec @ 108 mph Top speed (governor limited, mfr's claim): 167 mph Braking, 70-0 mph: 164 ft Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.91 g C/D FUEL ECONOMY: 75-mph highway driving: 26 mpg Highway range: 410 miles EPA FUEL ECONOMY (C/D EST): Combined/city/highway: 20/17/26 mpg
    0 replies | 51 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:05 PM
    trent_cass, we appreciate you taking the time to join.
    0 replies | 9 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:03 PM
    “Electric Boogaloo” is a phrase typically appended to the title of a sequel TV or film production to mock its poor quality. Originally featured in the title of the poorly received 1984 dance film Breakin’ 2: Electric Boogaloo Well not in the US. Replace Mossad with Isis or some terror group and you're onto something I think. Either way, this is being covered up.
    1613 replies | 1454020 view(s)
  • Torgus's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:57 PM
    The fact he used an IASIP reference at the end is gold. I'm not sure if I 100% buy it but it does explain the ridiculous amounts of ammo he had. He could not have expected to use that much. Why Mossad though? They have plenty of guns and ammo. We give them plenty of arms and $$$...maybe I missed something?
    1613 replies | 1454020 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:42 PM
    Sticky replied to a thread GC update in N54
    It's a fair point. I wanted to go to longer gears due to the extra shift for the E92 M3 DCT compared to the manual. The higher you are up in gears the less torque multiplication you get. You won't accelerate in 5th as quickly as 3rd even in a vacuum.
    13 replies | 202 view(s)
More Activity